This is a guest blog from our frequent traveler, Jack Hochfeld, who has traveled with us on many trips, including to the Svalbard Islands. With his signature blend of keen observation and poetic detail, Jack captures the essence of Arctic exploration—from calving glaciers and curious walruses to the quiet wonder of the midnight sun. His reflections offer a vivid glimpse into the raw beauty and fragility of the far north.
Departure to Svalbard
We fly for three hours north to Longyearbyen, Svalbard, 78° N, 15° E, the world’s most northerly permanent settlement with a population of over 1,000, halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole. A directional sign at the airport shows 1,300 km to the North Pole and 18,960 km to the South Pole. We are well beyond the Arctic Circle and further north than we’ve ever been. Polar bears in Svalbard vastly outnumber people. Venturing beyond town limits without an armed polar bear guide is prohibited.
Svalbard falls under Norwegian sovereignty by international treaty, with shared economic and scientific interests, including Russian activity. It is home to the Svalbard Global Seed Vault, a secure backup for the world’s seed crops.
Onboard
We board our small expedition vessel with 12 cabins and 11 passengers, including two Australian couples originally from South Africa and others from the USA, including a Serbian couple. Many are academics: a mathematician, pathologist, microbiologist, GP, biologist, geologist, and a computer chip designer.
Our Alaskan and Californian guides are seasoned Arctic and Antarctic travelers, marine and wildlife biologists, and accomplished photographers with experience shooting for National Geographic, the BBC, Animal Planet, and more. Both are professional, friendly, and knowledgeable.
Cabin & Seas
Cabin space is efficient, designed for exploration rather than luxury. Space is limited, so we packed sparingly and carefully. As we leave the harbor and enter open seas, the ship rolls a bit. Once in the sheltered fjords, we find our rhythm with the ocean and settle comfortably into life at sea.
Arctic vs Antarctic
The Arctic is surprisingly different from Antarctica—less dramatic but more subtle, milder, with calmer seas and a more leisurely pace. Though there are fewer species, the bird flocks are immense. The Arctic is an ocean surrounded by land, while the Antarctic is land surrounded by ocean—contributing to their contrasting characters.
This rugged, raw environment reveals its beauty slowly, through patience and presence. Stark, monochromatic landscapes dominate—sharp peaks under a heavy grey sky mirrored by a sea tinged with glacier blue and pale green. The black-and-white banded cliffs appear compressed between sky and sea, forming a sublime, minimalist canvas.
Glacier Approach & Wildlife
Our itinerary is shaped by weather and wildlife sightings. We aim north. One day, bright sun gives way to dense fog, and though we near Brasvellbreen—a massive 45 km glacier with cascading waterfalls—conditions require we abandon the approach. Instead, we reverse course and continue west and south, ultimately reaching the northernmost point of our journey beyond 80° N, less than 1,000 km from the North Pole.
Towering cliffs come alive with nesting birds: a constant swirl of flight, sound, and motion. We slowly nose through brash ice, the light catching the translucent blues and whites.
A sharp crack breaks the stillness—a glacier calves. Ice shards explode into the sea with a roar and splash, stirring the water and drawing krill to the surface. Clouds of Black-legged Kittiwakes descend, feeding and calling across the icy amphitheater. The air is sharp and clean.
Lodges & Peace
A desolate hunting lodge, abandoned yet still used in winter, offers shelter from the elements. Another, Texas Bar, is stocked with alcohol—true Arctic essentials. The waves gently lap the shore, the only interruption to the profound quiet.
We spot a pair of Rock Ptarmigans. The male, in white plumage with feathered legs, blends into the snowy terrain. On drifting ice, we observe sleeping seals and walruses. We maintain distance as required by Svalbard regulations, observing wildlife calmly and without interference. The rhythmic clunk of ice against the ship’s hull adds to the soundtrack of solitude.
Editor’s Note: All wildlife encounters are conducted following AECO (Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators) guidelines.
Wildlife Encounters & Walrus Thought
We live under 24-hour sunlight. The midnight sun distorts our sense of time—watches become essential for navigation of daily life. While animals follow natural rhythms, we operate on a fixed schedule, balancing Zodiac excursions, hikes, and onboard life.
First Zodiac Excursion & Polar Bears
On our first Zodiac outing, we spot three polar bears interacting over a walrus carcass. They are distant, and the conditions are challenging for photography, but observing their behavior—the posturing, tugging, and shifting between individuals—is captivating. With the right lenses and good resolution, excellent images can still be obtained despite the distances encountered.
Editor’s Note: Travelers are advised to always bring their primary camera gear on Zodiac outings, as significant wildlife sightings can happen at any moment.
Daily Wildlife & Wildlife List
Each day we venture out—by Zodiac or on foot—and are rewarded with sightings of polar bears, reindeer, Arctic foxes, walruses, seals, and an impressive array of birds: Arctic Terns, a lone Red Phalarope, an Ivory Gull, Black and Brunnich’s Guillemots, Kittiwakes, Glaucous Gulls, Common Eiders, and Barnacle Geese. No whales this trip, but Northern Fulmars occasionally follow the boat. Their flight patterns often defy our attempts to photograph them, vanishing just as the shutter is raised.
All landings are guided and safeguarded—our team always carries rifles as a legal and safety requirement in polar bear territory.
Polar Bears
Our polar bear sightings are memorable. We observe them sleeping, swimming, and traversing the ice. They appear nearly weightless, stepping with precision, their movements elegant and unhurried. They scan their environment for any signs of movement, the top predator in their domain.
Arctic Fox Cubs & Reindeer Flora
Unlike previous experiences where we watched fox dens from afar, here the Arctic fox cubs rest openly under a rock overhang, unconcerned with our distant observation.
Reindeer dot the steep slopes, grazing the sparse vegetation. Polar Willow blooms—though only centimeters tall, it thrives in this harsh climate. Lichen species (742 in total) offer bursts of color and serve as vital winter forage.
Hunting & Population
Foxes, seals, and reindeer are still legally hunted in Svalbard, though population data indicates healthy numbers for certain species.
Distorted Time & Duration
We spend 10 days aboard our small but homey expedition ship. With no sunrise or sunset, time becomes elastic. We accomplish much, yet it feels as though we’ve barely begun. The Arctic compresses and expands time all at once.
Final Reflection & Invitation
We leave awed by the stark beauty of the Arctic—its silence, its light, its slow rhythms. This is a land where survival is never guaranteed, and every birdcall, pawprint, or breeze over ice feels miraculous.
To witness this world—still wild, still enduring—is a rare privilege, and a reminder of what we need to protect.
🌎 Explore Our Svalbard Expeditions
Svalbard
June 29 to July 12, 2023 | July 9 to 22, 2023
Svalbard Islands:
A Polar Expedition Like No Other
From June 29 to July 12, 2023 and July 9 to 22, 2023, two groups of Cheesemans’ Ecology travelers embarked on expeditions to become Arctic explorers of the Svalbard Archipelago. Nestled between Norway and the North Pole, this pristine wilderness served as our playground for two weeks at a time under the enchanting glow of the midnight sun. Join us as we recount the highlights and unforgettable experiences of our Arctic journey in the realm of the polar bear, complete with testimonials from our travelers that bring the adventure and unforgettable wildlife encounters vividly to life.
Day 1 – Arrival in Longyearbyen, Svalbard
Our adventure began in Longyearbyen, the largest settlement on the Svalbard Archipelago. This quaint Scandinavian town, set against the stark beauty of the Arctic, welcomes with its unique charm and the day was spent exploring local attractions, last minute shopping, and soaking in the breathtaking landscapes that beckoned our further exploration by ship the next two weeks.
Day 2 – Embarking on Our Arctic Voyage
Embarkation day! We boarded our vessel, set to navigate through the icy realms of the Arctic. The excitement was palpable as we embarked from Longyearbyen, ready to explore the vast fjords and rugged wilderness awaiting us.
“It was a trip of a lifetime! This is my third and best Cheesemans’ trip. I didn’t think Antarctica could be topped but this was even better, probably because of the smaller group of travelers. We had nice cabins, a great crew, and two knowledgeable, friendly and fun guides. Most days were sunny. Wildlife was plentiful and the scenery was breathtaking. -Lynn DuPratt
“We experienced everything we hoped to with the added benefit of Cheesemans’ expert guides.” -Lori & Richard Rothstein
Days 3-9 – Highlights of the Expedition
Throughout our voyage, we immersed ourselves in the unparalleled beauty of the Svalbard Archipelago. Here are a few standout moments:
Wildlife Encounters: Our primary goal was to spot the mythical polar bear in its natural habitat. With 24 hours of daylight, each day offered endless opportunities to witness these majestic creatures, as well as other iconic Arctic wildlife like walruses and various whale species.
Zodiac Cruises: Small, agile Zodiac boats allowed us to approach the base of massive glaciers and navigate close to the nesting sites of seabird colonies. These excursions provided us with up-close experiences of the archipelago’s rich birdlife and stunning ice formations.
Photography Workshops: Under the guidance of Scott Davis, our group enhanced their photography skills, capturing the ethereal beauty of the Arctic landscape and its inhabitants. These workshops were a highlight for many, offering professional tips and techniques for wildlife and landscape photography.
Exploring Remote Inlets: The flexibility of our small group and the maneuverability of our ship allowed us to enter narrow inlets and straits, exploring areas that larger vessels could not reach. This access to untouched parts of the archipelago made our expedition truly special.
“Close interactions with polar bears, arctic foxes, and ice cruising were among the most unforgettable experiences.” -James Horsch
“Following an arctic fox along the shore for some 45 minutes was an absolute thrill.” -Stephen Tauber
Day 10 – Disembarkation and Reflections
As our journey neared its end, we disembarked in Longyearbyen. The last day was spent reflecting on our experiences and sharing stories of the incredible sights and encounters. The sense of camaraderie among the group was strong, forged through shared adventure and awe-inspiring moments.
“First rate from the office (Lauren), to our guides, to the crew aboard the ship. A seamless and wonderful experience from start to finish.” -Tom & Lindsay Bell
“You have great guides… and small trip experience is priceless” -Mary Ann Fernandez and Richard Pierce
“Magnificently operated; great ship crew; congenial group that was a pleasure to travel with. Great attention to detail, superb leadership.” -Stephen Tauber
“Your scale is too small. This trip was WAY more than ‘very good.’ In fact this was the most remarkable trip experience of my life!!” -Robyn Carmel
“Traveling with Cheesemans’ means you’ll have access to remote and incredible places with the added comfort of being in expert hands.” -Lori & Richard Rothstein
Looking Ahead: July 2025 Svalbard Expedition
Inspired by the success of our 2023 expedition, we are excited to announce our next journey to the Svalbard Islands. This upcoming trip promises more breathtaking encounters with Arctic wildlife, stunning landscapes, and the serene beauty of the polar night.
Whether you’re a photography enthusiast eager to capture the stark beauty of the ice, a wildlife lover fascinated by Arctic fauna, or an adventurer seeking to explore one of the planet’s most pristine environments, the Svalbard expedition offers an unrivaled experience.
Don’t miss the chance to be part of this extraordinary adventure. Join us as we return to the realm of the polar bear and experience the magic of the Arctic together.