Argentina and Brazil
August 29 to September 23, 2011

Northern Argentina Cloudforests, Iguazú Falls, Brazilian Amazon Basin and the Pantanal

Within the towering mountains on the eastern slope of the Andes, visit Puna grassland and the montane cloudforests known as Yungas. From the beautiful broadleaf forests of Iguazú Falls National Park, head for Alta Floresta and take a boat to Rio Cristalino in a pristine area of the Amazon Basin. Birds and mammals that are found nowhere else in the world thrive along the lush rivers. As a grand finale, we will visit the rivers, grassland, and riparian woodlands of Brazil's Pantanal. This is the hot, dry season in the Pantanal when wildlife is very concentrated before the big rains come. The rivers are low at this time giving us a chance to encounter Jaguar perhaps reclining along the exposed riverbank, where they come to hunt caiman and capybaras. The rivers, marshes, lakes, and streams that nourish these fabulous wildlife habitat will bring us surprises - hopefully Giant Anteater, Jaguar, and Tapir. Each day we'll enjoy a distinctive natural reserve or park to experience the magnificent wildlife of Argentina and Brazil!

Jaguar

At a Glance

Costs: $6,880 per person, double occupancy, not including airfare. Single supplement is $1,400. Review cost details.

Leader: Ricardo Clark lives in Argentina and has an extensive background in ecology and ornithology.

Group Size: 10, not including our leader.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in all wildlife and spending the maximum time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in November 2009. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:

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Detailed Itinerary

August 29 - 30, Monday - Tuesday: Arrive in Buenos Aires and Reseva Constanera walk
Your flight should arrive at the international airport in Buenos Aires (EZE) by the morning of August 30, at the latest (see flight information at the end of this itinerary). Upon arrival at the airport, arrange your transfer to the Americas Towers Hotel by taxi ("remise" in Spanish). It is best to arrange the taxi at the Manuel Tienda Leon Taxi Service desk inside the airport after you exit customs. The cost is approximately $40 (not included in the cost of the trip) and is much less expensive than arranging private transfers for each arrival. The Americas Towers Hotel is in a great location at Libertad 1070 and has a very friendly staff. If you choose to arrive earlier than August 30, we'd be happy to arrange extra nights at the Americas Towers Hotel. Please contact us for cost and more information. Ricardo Clark will arrive at the Americas Towers Hotel by 12:30 pm on August 30 to welcome you. Depart at 1 pm to Reserva Constanera Sur on the Rio Plata for an afternoon bird walk. Ricardo's daughter and her husband live in Buenos Aires, so Ricardo likes to stay with them when he is in Buenos Aires. Meals in Buenos Aires are on your own. Review flight details.
Lodging: Americas Tower Hotel

Green-headed Tananger

August 31, Wednesday: Flight to Salta and Reserva del Huaico
Depart with Ricardo at 5:30 am from the hotel to the domestic airport (AEP) for the flight to Salta in northwest Argentina. The historical city of Salta was populated more than 400 years ago and was a strategic place along the road to the Potosí-Bolivia silver mines. Drive a short distance along the foot of the Andes to the lovely town of San Lorenzo in the heart of Lerma's Valley. Ricardo and his wife Paty have their residence in this beautiful small town. A short drive from the lodge into the surrounding mountains will take us to the Reserva del Huaico, which protects a very special and extensive piece of Andean Yungas Cloudforest covering the slopes of Mount San Lorenzo. Cross a small valley with good chances of spotting grassland specialties such as Darwin's Tinamou and Red-legged Seriema. Around the entrance to Reserva del Huaico, walk some trails in search of forest birds: woodpeckers, parrots, and hummingbirds. Enjoy a delicious lunch served at the reserve with time after lunch to hear about some of the excellent conservation work accomplished here. After dinner back at the hotel, take a short sortie back to the reserve for some special owling.
Lodging: Selva Montana.

September 1, Thursday: San Lorenzo, Reserva del Huaico and Finca Lagunilla
Today enjoy more Yungas native habitat at Reserva del Huaico and great birding for water birds at a private ranch, Finca Lagunilla. Drive eastward into the Sianca Valley to the lagoon at Finca Lagunilla. An amazing abundance of waterfowl concentrates in this lagoon, including the rare Comb Duck. The reeds and rushes give shelter to Southern Screamer, Snail Kite, and Spot-flanked Gallinule, while the surrounding thickets will provide chances to see the Red-crested Cardinal and other passerines.
Lodging: Selva Montana

Guanaco

September 2 - 3, Friday - Saturday: Los Cardones National Park
Take an unforgettable journey into the mighty Andean ridges to Los Cardones National Park, located 100 kilometers southwest of Salta. Los Cardones protects spectacular cacti-clad slopes and towering peaks, rising to more than 5,000 meters. We'll hope for blue skies, although sometimes fog moves in over these high Andean grasslands. Guanacos and Mountain Vizcacha, running across the puna grassland, are possibilities here and Andean Condor can be seen soaring over the ridges or below us along deep valleys. The unpaved winding road climbs up the Bishop's Cordillera to 3,500 meters, where Variable Hawk, Aplomado Falcon, and Andean Flicker reside. Many passerines are found in the vegetated gullies. Spend time walking along trails where we hope to find the endemic and rare Steinbach's Canastero - a member of the ovenbird family. Flowering native tobacco bushes attract striking hummingbirds such as the Red-tailed Comet and Giant Hummingbird. Tinamous, which are big, furtive, terrestrial birds with cryptic patterns, can be spotted on the drier slopes. Later proceed west along the Tin-Tin Valley towards the town of Cachi. Our lodging is at La Paya Ranch, a working ranch which produces delicious local products that will be served at dinner and breakfast. Also walk through mesquite forest and cactus exploring the surroundings of La Paya. White-fronted Woodpecker, the endemic White-throated Cacholote, Andean Hillstar, Cliff Flycatcher, and Burrowing Parrot also reside here.
Lodging: La Paya Ranch

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September 4, Sunday: La Paya and back through Los Cardones National Park
Enjoy another great morning in this beautiful location. After lunch, drive back through Los Cardones National Park and hopefully see more Guanacos and Mountain Vizcacha. The descent along the slope into the deep Lerma Valley will be great for scenic photography, again with opportunities to see Andean Condor, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, and perhaps Peregrine Falcon.
Lodging: Selva Montana

September 5 - 6, Monday - Tuesday: Fly to Iguazú Falls National Park
Fly via Buenos Aires to Iguazú Falls, located in the extreme northeast of Argentina along the border with Brazil and Paraguay. There is time on Thursday morning to enjoy the long boardwalks bordering the river and savor the many views of the falls, as well as some of the abundant birdlife that thrives nearby. A selection of parrolets, toucans, tanagers, euphonias, and many other forest inhabitants will be active in the early morning. At sunset, Great Dusky Swifts circle around the falls, then plunge at great speed down through the curtains of water to their roost behind. Careful spotting may locate several White-collared Swifts as well. Spend two nights at the wonderful Sheraton Iguazú - the only hotel located right inside the national park beside Iguazú Falls on the Argentinian side.

Iguazú Falls, an astounding spectacle amidst the splendor of the jungle, is surrounded by forest trails with special primates and birds. This mature sub-tropical rainforest is an impressive green wall, 20 to 30 meters tall, which is distributed into strata. There are at least a hundred evergreen tree species, epiphytes, lianas, and a dense bamboo understory. Visit the major habitat types: the evergreen and bamboo forests, misty riverine gorges, capueras (cleared areas with secondary growth), and savannah. Walk parts of the Macuco, Yacaratiá or Timbó trails on the Argentinian side. The Macuco trail is a six-kilometer primary rainforest trail, which is excellent for birding. On previous trips to Iguazú, the endangered Black-fronted Piping-Guan has been seen right from one of the boardwalks along the river, so there is good chance of seeing this great rarity! We'll also get to see one of the last remaining sections of Paranaense forest. This type of rainforest develops along the Paraná River system and is characterized by relatively short trees with huge trunks covered by epiphytes.
Lodging: Sheraton Iguazú Hotel

September 7 - 8, Wednesday - Thursday: The Brazilian side of Iguazú Falls
On Wednesday morning, continue to enjoy the amazing Argentine side of the falls. The roaring mass of water plunging down is quite the attraction! After lunch, we will cross the border and have time for a quick visit to the Brazilian side of the falls. On Thursday, go back inside the national park for walking and another visit to the falls. Good habitat protects several bird specialties such as Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Green-headed Tanager, and friendly toucans. There are also several species of mammals, including Coatis. The trails and boardwalks on the Brazilian side are not nearly as extensive as on the Argentinian side, but you will experience more beautiful views of the falls and the wildlife along the trails. Also visit a wonderful hummingbird garden in the town of Puerto Iguazú. We will spend the nights at the Hotel San Martín near the Puerto Iguazú Airport on the Brazil side.
Lodging: Hotel San Martín

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September 9, Friday: Fly to Cuiaba
Depart early this morning for the early flight from Puerto Iguazú to Cuiabá, arriving by midday. Check in at the Best Western Palace Hotel in downtown Cuiabá. This afternoon, enjoy some free time to explore Cuiabá, catch up on your journal, or just relax.
Lodging: Best Western Palace

Iguazú Falls

September 10, Saturday: Alta Floresta
In the morning, drive to Mae Bonifacia Park on the edge of Cuiabá to see birds and hopefully a family of Pantanal Marmosets, a very localized primate that has been recently split into its own species of marmoset. Take a midday flight from Cuiabá to the small town of Alta Floresta. The flight crosses over the highlands of north central Brazil, which are marked with lush gallery forests. Gradually the trees get taller and the forest more continuous, with only rivers and an occasional ranch or road cutting into it. Closer Alta Floresta, notice that the land below is cleared.
Lodging: Hotel Floresta Amazonica

September 11, Sunday: Rio Cristalino in the Amazon Basin
After some early morning birding on the lodge grounds, depart the hotel for the Teles Pires River. Travel by boat upstream into the mouth of the Cristalino River. The confluence of the black water of Rio Cristalino with the yellow-brown water of Rio Teles Pires creates a fascinating phenomenon. Boating up the Cristalino River is a delightful experience, which we will repeat over the next few days. The secluded Rio Cristalino Lodge, a half-hour upstream, is in a small clearing on the banks of the river and miles from any other development. Here we find pristine river and forest. Hammocks are available for lounging during midday. We'll explore the lodge grounds then meet for dinner at the dining area. Scarlet Macaws screech overhead, stopping in a tree where they often nest just behind the lodge. White-whiskered Spider Monkeys can be found in the immediate area and you'll be captivated with the setting of the lodge on the river.
Lodging: Rio Cristalino Lodge

September 12 - 13, Monday - Tuesday: Rio Cristalino in the Amazon Basin
Explore this incredibly rich Amazonian forest, with its staggering 450 bird species and magical encounters with huge, roaming mixed-species flocks. Enjoy pleasant afternoon boat trips along the lovely black water of Rio Cristalino. Search for special birds - those that are poorly known, range-restricted, or bamboo specialist species. Birds we hope to find include the Manu Antbird, Peruvian Recurvebill, Large-headed and Dusky-tailed flatbill, Dusky-cheeked Foliage Gleaner, and Cherry-throated Spinetail. Other special birds here include: Razor-billed Curassow; Red-throated Piping Guan; Dark-winged Trumpeter; Amazonian Umbrellabird; Spangled, Purple-throated, and Pompadour Cotingas; and Royal Flycatcher. In addition to birds, the river habitat supports a large list of mammals, but they are very difficult to encounter due to being shy and rare. The list includes a stunning fourteen species of primates, plus Jaguar, Short-eared Dog, Tayra, Giant River Otter, and Brazilian Tapir. Behind the lodge, a trail leads to a small stream - an excellent location to view at least two species of primates that are fairly well habituated. White-whiskered Spider Monkey, White-fronted Capuchin, Common Woolly Monkey, and both Red and Red-handed howler monkeys are resident. Dusky Titi Monkey, Southern Red-necked Night Monkey, and the very endangered White-nosed Bearded Saki Monkey have occasionally been seen as well. Upstream, there is a very different ecosystem with trees that are widely spaced, allowing more light to hit the forest floor. Take a trail that winds through the forest to a huge Brazil nut tree with a diameter of at least ten feet. There is even a chance of finding a Jaguar or a Tapir swimming across the river!
Lodging: Rio Cristalino Lodge

Jabiru

September 14 - 15, Tuesday - Wednesday: Fly to Cuiabá, drive to Pousada Canto do Arancua
After breakfast, take a boat down the Cristalino River, while birding all the way back to Alta Floresta. Arrive in time for lunch and an afternoon flight back to Cuiabá. Cuiabá, in the northern part of Mato Grosso and deep in the center of a huge plateau, is right beside the Pantanal. On arrival in Cuiabá, drive to Pousada Canto do Arancua, a great place for nightspotting. The drive to the edge of the Pantantal is more or less non-stop across 90 kilometers of Cerrado forest habitat to the village of Pocone. Enjoy two nights at Pousada Canto do Arancua with good birding during the day and night spotting each evening in hopes of encountering nocturnal species, including the very elusive Giant Anteater.
Lodging: Pousada Canto do Arancua

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September 16 - 17, Friday - Saturday: The Pantanal on the Pixaim River
About 15 kilometers south of Pocone, the Transpantaneira begins - a truly extraordinary and barely elevated dirt track traversing some 150 kilometers of Pantanal, ending at Porto Jofre on the Rio Cuiabá. Drive to the Pixaim River and the Best Western Pananal. The lodge is right on the marvelous Pixaim River, 46 kilometers from Pocone. Walk the trails along the river and enjoy a fantastic late afternoon boat trip until a beautiful sunset on the river at dusk, hopefully joined by Giant River Otters. See large numbers of herons, storks, and other waterfowl that are characteristic of this region. Yacare Caimans and Capybaras thrive here, as they are well protected from hunting in the Pantanal.
Lodging: Best Western Pantanal

September 18, Sunday: Porto Jofre on the Cuiabá River
Before breakfast at Pixaim, join Ricardo for a walk in the low streamside woods looking for such specialties as the Gray-crested Cacholote, Band-tailed Antbird, Mato Grosso Antbird, and Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant. Drive to the end of the long, rough Transpantaneira to Porto Jofre Lodge. The most visible mammal in the Pantanal is the Capybara, a giant social rodent weighing around 60 kilograms. Both Pampas and Marsh deer can be seen in the tall grassland, while Black Howler and Brown Capuchin monkeys swing from the trees. Along the drive through scrubland and riverine gorges, stop for a walk to find Chestnut-bellied Guan - the only endemic to the Pantanal. Look also for many other attractions, such as Chaco Chachalaca and Bare-faced Curassow. It is 86 kilometers from Pixaim to Porto Jofre, not a great distance, though road conditions may make it seem long. Enjoy a side tour inside the forest to look for more Pantanal passerines. Almost imperceptibly, the marshes grow vaster and the waterbirds become even more numerous until we reach an opening known as Campo Jofre, where in recent years Jaguars have been consistently encountered along the river. Peccaries and Tapir are possibilities here as well. Hundreds of Yacare Caimans and some Green Iguanas are the most noteworthy reptiles of the Pantanal (Yellow Anacondas are rarely seen). Hyacinth Macaws steal the show by perching in the trees on the lodge grounds, feeding on the native palms growing there.
Lodging: Porto Jofre Lodge

Green Iguanas

September 19 - 20, Monday - Tuesday: Hyacinth Macaws and the search for Jaguar
The two principal avian emblems of the Pantanal are the Jabiru (which by this point we will have seen in considerable numbers) and the Hyacinth Macaw - a much less common, but equally impressive species. The world's largest parrot, it occurs at scattered localities along the Transpantaneira, but is most often seen in the immediate vicinity of Porto Jofre. While seeking the Hyacinth Macaw, we hope also to see White-wedged Piculet (a tiny woodpecker), Cinereous-breasted and White-lored spinetails, and Plain Tyrannulet. Our boat trips along the river will be truly memorable experiences if the weather is calm, which it normally is at this season. From the boat, watch kingfishers diving after their meal, Blue-throated Piping-Guan at the waters edge, Fishing-Bats patrolling pools, and Black Howlers roaring in the forest. We have good chances of spotting a Jaguar along the Rio Tres Irmaões, upstream of Porto Jofre, within the Parque Estadual Encontro das Aguas.
Lodging: Porto Jofre Lodge

September 21, Wednesday: Return to Cuiabá
We'll leave Porto Jofre early in the morning and retrace our route, stopping in certain areas of low forest or wooded swamp to search for species not seen yet in these habitats, perhaps Laughing Falcon and Long-winged Harrier. We'll pass through Pixaim and stop for lunch in Pocone. Overnight at the Best Western Palace again. Dinner and remaining meals are on our own.
Lodging: Hotel Monico

September 22 - 23, Thursday - Friday: Flights homeward and arrival home
Individual transfers from the hotel to the Cuiabá Airport will be covered to allow plenty of time to check in on September 22 for your flight homeward. Meals are on your own today. Arrive home on September 23. Review flight details.

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Costs

Costs, Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send trip materials and travel insurance information. Until the final payment date, payments are refundable except for a cancellation fee of $150 per person. This fee may go toward another tour if reserved within six months of the departure date of the cancelled trip.

Included:

• All lodging and meals chosen from the regular menu, starting with lunch on August 31 through dinner on September 21.
• Land transportation.
• Baggage handling for one medium sized soft-sided bag per person.
• All entrance fees to national parks and private ranches.
• Services of our resident guide.

Not Included:

• International and internal airfare. The cost of international fares varies depending on origin. The internal flights within Argentina and Brazil are approximately $1,400 (subject to change, quoted November 2009). This cost will be added to your reservation and due along with your final payment.
• The Brazilian visa fee of $100 and any fee charged by a visa company for their assistance in obtaining your Brazilian visa.
• Taxi transfer from the Buenos Aires airport to the hotel on August 30.
• Bottled beverages except for water provided in the vehicles and soft drinks with picnic lunches in the field.
• Any item of a purely personal nature such as room service and laundry.
• Items not on the menu of included meals.
• Gratuities: Tipping is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting $8 to $10 per day per participant (a total of $184 to $230 per participant) to be distributed among all the resident naturalists, porters and drivers. The gratuity will be collected at the end of the safari.

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Sign-up

To Make a Reservation: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Other Details

Ricardo Clark

Leader: Ricardo Clark, whom we have worked with since 1992, has an extensive background in ecology and ornithology, and works constantly to protect the amazingly diverse northern Argentine native habitats near Salta. Prior to establishing Clark Expediciones, Ricardo worked in the Argentine National Park Service and published a field guide to the birds of Tierra del Fuego, having spent several years working in this wild and beautiful southern extremity of the continent. Ricardo is considerate, outgoing and friendly, and has great enthusiasm for high-energy safaris with long days in the field. He is an accomplished tour leader with a perfect command of English, and has also led our wildlife tours in Peru, Chile, and Bolivia.

Flights: Please let us know if you would like help arranging your own international flights.

Your inbound flight should arrive in Argentina at the Buenos Aires - Ezeiza International Airport (EZE) by the morning of August 30. Most international flights arrive around mid-morning, giving plenty of time to take a taxi to the Americas Towers Hotel and meet our leader in the lobby at 12:30 pm. Fly homeward the morning of September 22 from Cuiabá, Brazil. Please let us know if you would like help arranging your international flights or if you'd like to extend your stay by arriving early or staying longer.

Internal Flights: We will book the internal flights for you and the cost will be added to your reservation and due with your final payment. The flight schedule listed below is subject to change.

Travel Insurance: Emergency Medical Insurance is optional, but encouraged, for this tour. Read about travel insurance and our recommendations and requirements.

Climate: Temperatures vary greatly. The plateau areas are higher and not humid; the Andes can be surprisingly cool all year with rain. The Pantanal is normally hot at this season, especially at midday. This is the dry season when the rivers are the lowest giving us a chance to encounter wildlife along the exposed riverbank. It is important to bring clothing for both cool and warm weather, but also try to travel as light as possible.

Health Concerns: Consult your physician about vaccinations, inoculations, malaria prophylactic, etc. Vaccinations and inoculations are not required to enter Argentina. We recommend a Tetanus shot and Hepatitis A vaccination. We also recommend that you drink bottled or filtered water. Bring all medicine that you require.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. The right is reserved to cancel the tour prior to departure, in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs and exchange rates and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris.
All photos © Doug or Ted Cheeseman, unless otherwise credited.
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