Argentina and Brazil
Andes, Iguazú Falls, Pantanal, and Amazon Basin
August 29 to September 21, 2011

Within sight of the towering mountains on the slopes of the Andes, visit a cloudforest in the Yungas, then up into the Altiplano. From the beautiful broadleaf forests of fabulous Iguazú Falls National Park, fly to the Pantanal. This is the hot, dry season in the Pantanal when wildlife is very concentrated before the big rains come. The rivers are low at this time giving us a chance to encounter Jaguar along the exposed riverbanks, where they come to hunt caiman and capybaras. The wetlands that nourish these fabulous wildlife habitats will bring us surprises - hopefully Giant Anteater and Tapir. As a grand finale, we will fly to Manaus and west to Tefé up the Amazon River to take a boat to Uakari Lodge in the Mamirauá Reserve, a pristine place in the heart of the Amazon Basin. Birds and mammals that are found nowhere else in the world thrive along the lush rivers, including Pink River Dolphins and the rare red-faced monkey, the Uakari. Each day we'll enjoy a distinctive natural reserve or park to experience the magnificent wildlife of Argentina and Brazil!

At a Glance

Costs: $6,880 per person, double occupancy, not including airfare. Single supplement is $1,400. Review cost details.

Leader: Ricardo Clark.

Group Size: 10, not including our leader.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in all wildlife and spending the maximum time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in May 2010. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:

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Detailed Itinerary

August 29 - 30, Monday - Tuesday: Flights to Buenos Aires; Reserva Costanera Sur walk
Your flight should arrive at the international airport in Buenos Aires (EZE) by the morning of August 30, at the latest (see flight information at the end of this itinerary). Upon arrival at the airport, arrange your transfer to the Americas Towers Hotel by taxi ("remise" in Spanish). Arrange the taxi at the Manuel Tienda Leon Taxi Service desk or at one of the other two remise booths inside the airport after you exit customs. The cost is approximately $40 (not included in the cost of the trip) and is much less expensive than arranging private transfers for each arrival. The Americas Towers Hotel is in a great location at Libertad 1070 and has a very friendly staff. If you choose to arrive earlier than August 30, we'd be happy to arrange extra nights at the Americas Towers Hotel. Please contact us for cost and more information. Ricardo Clark will arrive at the Americas Towers Hotel by 12:30 pm on August 30 to welcome you. Depart at 1 pm for an Argentine lunch and then to Reserva Costanera Sur on the Rio Plata for an afternoon bird walk. Enjoy the late afternoon light to photograph family groups of Guira Cockoos, Golden-bellied Woodpeckers and other birds that are quite habituated to people in this very popular reserve. At 8 pm depart the hotel to an exciting tango show, including dinner and return by midnight to round out an authentic Argentine cultural experience on this very first day. Review flight details.
Lodging: Americas Tower Hotel

August 31, Wednesday: Flight to Salta and Reserva del Huaico
Depart with Ricardo mid-morning from the hotel to the domestic airport (AEP) to fly to Salta in northwest Argentina. The historical city of Salta was populated more than 400 years ago and was a strategic place along the road to the Potosí-Bolivia silver mines. Drive a short distance along the foot of the Andes to the lovely town of San Lorenzo in the heart of Lerma's Valley. Ricardo and his wife Paty have their residence in this beautiful small town. A short drive from the lodge into the surrounding mountains will take us to the Reserva del Huaico, which protects a very special and extensive piece of Andean Yungas Cloudforest covering the slopes of Mount San Lorenzo. Our lodge adjoins Reserva Huaico and is only a 15-minute walk from the reserve. Enjoy a delicious lunch served at Hotel Selva Montan. Hear about some of the excellent conservation work accomplished by the Yuchan Foundation that owns the Reserva Huaico. Enjoy the photography in the lodge surroundings, especially the Plush-crested Jays, Cream-backed Woodpeckers, Yellow-toothed Cavies and other wildlife that frequent the gardens around the lodge. This evening depending on the weather, take a short sortie to the reserve in hopes of hearing and locating a Hoy's Screech Owl.
Lodging: Selva Montana.

September 1, Thursday: San Lorenzo, Reserva del Huaico and Finca Lagunilla
Today walk in the Reserva del Huaico and this afternoon enjoy the birds at a private finca (ranch). Drive eastward into the Sianca Valley to the lagoon at Finca Lagunilla. An amazing abundance of waterfowl concentrates in this lagoon, including the rare Comb Duck. The reeds and rushes give shelter to Southern Screamer, Snail Kite, and Spot-flanked Gallinule, while the surrounding thickets will provide chances to see the Red-crested Cardinal and other passerines.
Lodging: Selva Montana

September 2, Friday: Los Cardones National Park
Take an unforgettable journey into the mighty Andean ridges to Los Cardones National Park, located 100 kilometers southwest of Salta. Los Cardones protects spectacular cacti-clad slopes and towering peaks, rising to more than 5,000 meters. We'll hope for blue skies, although sometimes fog moves in over these high Andean grasslands. Guanacos and Mountain Vizcacha, running across the puna grassland, are possibilities here and Andean Condor can be seen soaring over the ridges or below us along deep valleys. The unpaved winding road climbs up the Bishop's Cordillera to 3,500 meters, where Variable Hawk, Aplomado Falcon, and Andean Flicker reside. Many passerines are found in the vegetated gullies. Spend time walking in the Puna grasslands where we hope to find the endemic and rare Steinbach's Canastero - a member of the ovenbird family. Flowering native tobacco bushes attract striking hummingbirds such as the Red-tailed Comet and Giant Hummingbird. Tinamous, which are big, furtive, terrestrial birds with cryptic patterns, can be spotted on the drier slopes. Later proceed west along the Tin-Tin Valley towards the town of Cachi. Our lodging is at La Paya Ranch, a working ranch which produces delicious local products that will be served at dinner and breakfast.
Lodging: La Paya Ranch

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September 3, Saturday: In the Altiplano (High Plain)
Take time to walk through mesquite forest and cactus exploring the surroundings of La Paya. White-fronted Woodpecker, the endemic White-throated Cacholote, Andean Hillstar, Cliff Flycatcher, and Burrowing Parrot reside here. Enjoy the scenic landscapes and the picturesque Andean town of Cachi, which has a very charming town square. Today we'll ascend higher into the Andes to the Altiplano (High Plain) where the Andes are at their widest. The Altiplano is one of the most extensive areas of high plateau on earth. Here we'll observe and photograph Vicuna and Guanaco grazing in the Puna. Cross the Acay Pass at about 16,000 feet, then descend to the most famous town in the Altiplano, San Antonio de los Cobres, with time to enjoy the late afternoon light and hopefully photograph a beautiful sunset. Overnight at Hosteria de las Nubes (clouds) in the town of San Antonio de los Cobres.
Lodging: Hosteria de las Nubes

September 4, Sunday: Return to Salta and fly to Buenos Aires
Enjoy another great morning in this beautiful region. After lunch, drive to Salta down through many cactus-laden slopes. The descent will be great for scenic photography, again with opportunities to see Andean Condor, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, and Aplomado Falcon. Fly to Buenos Aires for overnight at Americas Towers to be there for the first flight of the morning to Iguazú.
Lodging: Americas Towers

September 5 - 6, Monday - Tuesday: Fly to Iguazú Falls National Park
Fly to Iguazú, located in the extreme northeast part of Argentina along the border of Brazil and Paraguay. Drive for a half hour to the national park entrance and another 15 minutes to the Sheraton Iguazú. There is time to enjoy the long boardwalks bordering the river and savor the many views of the falls, as well as some of the abundant birdlife that thrives nearby. A selection of parrolets, toucans, tanagers, euphonias, and other forest inhabitants will be active. At sunset, Great Dusky Swifts circle around the falls, then plunge at great speed down through the curtains of water to their roost behind. Photogenic Toco Toucans and Brown Brocket Deer often are on the hotel grounds. Spend two nights at the wonderful Sheraton Iguazú - the only hotel located right inside the national park beside Iguazú Falls on the Argentinian side.

Iguazú Falls, an astounding spectacle amidst the splendor of the jungle, is surrounded by forest trails with special primates and birds. This mature sub-tropical rainforest is an impressive green wall, 20 to 30 meters tall, which is distributed into strata. There are at least a hundred evergreen tree species, epiphytes, lianas, and a dense bamboo understory. Visit the major habitat types: the evergreen and bamboo forests, misty riverine gorges, capueras (cleared areas with secondary growth), and savannah. Walk the Macuco, Yacaratiá or Timbó trail on the Argentinian side, depending on the recommendations from Daniel Somay, a very experienced resident guide at Iguazú who will assist Ricardo on Tuesday's forest walk. On previous trips to Iguazú, the endangered Black-fronted Piping-Guan has been seen right from one of the boardwalks along the river, so there is good chance of seeing this great rarity! We'll also get to see one of the last remaining sections of Paranaense forest. This type of rainforest develops along the Paraná River system and is characterized by relatively short trees with huge trunks covered by epiphytes.
Lodging: Sheraton Iguazú Hotel

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September 7, Wednesday: Both sides of Iguazú Falls
On Wednesday morning, continue to enjoy the amazing Argentine side of the falls. The roaring mass of water plunging down is quite the attraction! After lunch depart the hotel and visit a wonderful hummingbird garden in the town of Puerto Iguazú, then cross the border and have time for the Brazilian side of the falls in the late afternoon light. The boardwalk on the Brazil side is short, but good habitat along the walk down to the falls protects several bird specialties, such as Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Green-headed Tanager, and friendly toucans, along with the friendly Coatis that are abundant on both sides of the falls. There are also several species of mammals besides Coatis, but they are much shyer. Experience more beautiful views of the falls and have fun getting wet from the spray. We will spend the night at the Hotel San Martín near the Foz do Iguazú Airport on the Brazil side.
Lodging: Hotel San Martín

September 8 - 10, Thursday - Saturday: Fly to Cuiabá and into the Pantanal
Depart this morning for the early flight from Foz do Iguazú to Cuiabá, arriving by midday. On arrival in Cuiabá, drive to Pousada Canto do Arançua at km 38 on the Transpantaneira for three nights, a great place for nightspotting, as well as daylight spotting. The drive to the edge of the Pantanal is more or less non-stop across 90 kilometers of Cerrado forest habitat to the village of Pocone. About 15 kilometers south of Pocone, the Transpantaneira begins - a truly extraordinary and barely elevated dirt track traversing some 150 kilometers of Pantanal, ending at Porto Jofre on the Rio Cuiabá. Enjoy three nights at Pousada Canto do Arançua with good birding during the day and night spotting each evening in hopes of encountering spectacular species, including the very elusive Giant Anteater and Tapir. Walk the trails along the river and enjoy a fantastic late afternoon boat trip until a beautiful sunset on the river at dusk. See large numbers of herons, storks, and other waterfowl that are characteristic of this region. Yacare Caimans and Capybaras thrive here, as they are well protected from hunting in the Pantanal.
Lodging: Pousada Canto do Arançua

September 11 - 13, Sunday - Tuesday: Porto Jofre on the Cuiabá River
Today crossing the Transpantaneira, stop to look for such specialties as the Gray-crested Cacholote, Band-tailed Antbird, Mato Grosso Antbird, and Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant. Drive to the end of the long, rough Transpantaneira to Porto Jofre Lodge. The most visible mammal in the Pantanal is the Capybara, a giant social rodent weighing around 60 kilograms. Both Pampas and Marsh deer can be seen in the tall grassland, while Black Howler and Brown Capuchin monkeys may be spotted in the trees. Along the drive through scrubland and riverine gorges, stop for a walk to find Chestnut-bellied Guan - the only species endemic to the Pantanal. Look also for many other attractions, such as Chaco Chachalaca and Bare-faced Curassow. Almost imperceptibly, the marshes grow vaster and the waterbirds become even more numerous until we reach an opening known as Campo Jofre, where in recent years Jaguars have been consistently encountered along the river. Peccaries and Tapir are possibilities here as well. Hundreds of Yacare Caimans and some Green Iguanas are the most noteworthy reptiles of the Pantanal (Yellow Anacondas are rarely seen). Hyacinth Macaws steal the show by perching in the trees on the lodge grounds, feeding on the native palms growing there. The two principal avian emblems of the Pantanal are the Jabiru (which by this point we will have seen in considerable numbers) and the Hyacinth Macaw - a much less common, but equally impressive species. The world's largest parrot, it occurs at scattered localities along the Transpantaneira, but is most often seen in the immediate vicinity of Porto Jofre. While seeking the Hyacinth Macaw, we hope also to see White-wedged Piculet (a tiny woodpecker), Cinereous-breasted and White-lored spinetails, and Plain Tyrannulet. From the boat hopefully watch kingfishers diving after their meal, Blue-throated Piping-Guan at the waters edge, Fishing-Bats patrolling pools, and Black Howlers roaring in the forest. Our boat trips along the river will be truly memorable experiences if the weather is calm, which it normally is at this season. This is, of course, a weather-dependent trip throughout, so do be tolerant of less than ideal conditions.
Lodging: Porto Jofre Lodge

September 14, Wednesday: Return to Cuiabá
We'll leave Porto Jofre early in the morning and retrace our route, stopping in certain areas of low forest or wooded swamp to search for species not seen yet in these habitats, perhaps Laughing Falcon and Long-winged Harrier. We'll stop for lunch in Pocone. Overnight at the Best Western Palace in Cuiabá.
Lodging: Best Western Palace

September 15, Thursday: Manaus and at the Tropical Manaus
We'll fly from Cuiabá to Manaus, the capital of Amazonas in the deep center of Brazil. From here we transfer to the Tropical Manaus Hotel, but we'll take a detour to allow us a look at the famous opera house in Manaus. The hotel is located in Punta Negra, a large peninsula getting into the brown milky waters of the Solimoes River, located 17 kilometers from the city of Manaus. This afternoon walk the extensive surroundings, a great introduction to the birds of the Amazonas in this location by the river.
Lodging: Tropical Manaus Hotel

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September 16, Friday: Fly to Tefé, boat ride to Mamirauá Reserve and Uakari Lodge
There might be another two hours available to enjoy the surroundings of the hotel before leaving for the local airport in time to catch our flight from Manaus to Tefé, which leaves at about 11:30 am. After arrival in Tefé, we will be met by the excellent group of people and guides working at the Mamirauá Reserve. They will transfer us to the local dock from where we take a boat trip of about one to two hours along the Rio Amazonas and into the Rio Solimoes to the Uakari Lodge. The boat trip on the Rio Solimoes is the best opportunity for viewing the Pink Dolphins, so be prepared to search for them surfacing. Three nights will be spent at this spectacular setting in the heart of the Amazonian Forest.

Uakari is a well-organized eco-lodge with floating cabins and is one of the top jungle lodge destinations in the Amazon Basin because of the abundant wildlife and the pristine surroundings it offers. The Uakari Lodge is part of the Mamirauá Institute, whose mission is "to conserve the biodiversity of the Mamirauá Reserve with participatory management." During part of the year the forest is flooded and boating only is the way to see wildlife. In September, we can walk on trails in the forest, as well as do a lot of wildlife viewing from boats. The White Uakari is a very special species of monkey that is well protected in the reserve. We may also visit a local riverine village. Uakari Lodge provides educational and economical support to several small communities in the surrounding area. Most employees are Caboclos or local natives who are learning a specific trade. Services offered at the Uakari Jungle Lodge are designed to allow the Caboclos to improve their lives, while offering visitors a more natural environment in a very comfortable lodge with abundant wildlife all around. Floating houses, floating farms and family groups of locals fishing in small canoes will soon give us an idea of the rather drastic changes in the height of waters between dry and rainy seasons here. Raptors are abundant, including Osprey, Great Black-hawk, Black-collared Hawk, Crane Hawk and Black Hawk-Eagle along the river together with an abundance of herons, egrets, cormorants, terns, and storks.

On arrival, we will be able to check in and meet the staff, then after lunch walk on a nearby trail for an introduction to the amazing birds found here. We should see some new raptors, such as Hook-billed Hawk, Slender-billed Kite, and Slate-colored Hawk. Flocks of Hoatzins will call our attention with their rasping calls from the thickets, while a Sunbittern can be spotted on the muddy shores together with huge Black Caiman. Short-tailed Parrots and Tui Parakeets perch in the open branches of the medium strata and Red-bellied and Chestnut-fronted macaws go in pairs to higher trees. Hummingbirds are abundant due to variety of flowering bushes, but they are also difficult to spot and a bit unpredictable. White-necked Jacobin, White-bearded Hermit, and Long-billed Starthroat will eventually show well. We will search for Violaceus Trogon, the impressive Chestnut Woodpecker, and the minute Orinoco Piculet, while we hope for Pied Puffbird, White-chinned Jacamar, and Masked Tityra to show themselves at the edge of the forest.
Lodging: Uakari Lodge

September 17 - 18, Saturday - Sunday: Mamirauá Reserve and Uakari Lodge
Much of the action in the forest happens at sunrise, so we sit down to early breakfasts at about 5:30 am to be ready for walks along the trails. The trails are designed not to be physically taxing. Most of them can be explored in three hours at the longest. As well as birds, we will be looking for arboreal mammals, such as monkeys that are represented here by some of the most spectacular and sought after species, including Red Howler Monkey, Blackish Squirrel-Monkey, Monk Saki Monkey, and the one that gives the name to our lodge, the White Bald Uakari. These creatures are all difficult to spot, but we will also be rewarded by good views of Amazon Red Squirrel, Three-toed Sloths hanging from dead branches over the water, Brown Capuchins, and even Brazilian Porcupine. Take nocturnal outings in search of small mammals that will likely include Long-nosed and Greater Fishing bats, Amazon Bamboo Rat, and Four-eyed Opossum together with a few nocturnal birds, such as Black-banded Owl, Ladder-tailed Nightjar, Sand-colored Nighthawk, and Pauraque. In this season, which is the "dry" season on the Amazon River, cats are always a good possibility and here in the reserve that may include Margay and even Jaguar. In the surrounding forest we will certainly spot a number of Amazonian bird specialties, including Horned Screamer, Black Caracara, Festive and Mealy parrots, Scarlet-crowned Barbet, Spot-breasted and Crimson-crested woodpeckers, Lettered Aracari, White-throated Toucan, Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Amazonian Umbrellabird, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, and Plum-throated and Purple-throated cotingas.
Lodging: Uakari Lodge

September 19, Monday: Morning at Reserve and flight to Manaus
Today we will take the boat trip back to Tefé, again hoping to spot Pink Dolphin in the area where they are best spotted. Fly back to Manaus. We'll arrive for dinner and overnight at the Tropical Manaus Hotel in Punta Negra (Black Point).
Lodging: Tropical Manaus Hotel

September 20 - 21, Tuesday - Wednesday: Flights homeward
Transfer to the airport in Manaus for flights homeward, arriving home on September 21, depending on your international flight schedule. Review flight details.

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Costs

Costs, Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send trip materials and travel insurance information. Until the final payment date, payments are refundable except for a cancellation fee of $150 per person. This fee may go toward another tour if reserved within six months of the departure date of the cancelled trip.

Included:

• All lodging and meals chosen from the regular menu, starting with lunch on August 30 through dinner on September 19.
• Land transportation.
• Baggage handling for one medium sized soft-sided bag per person.
• All entrance fees to national parks and private ranches.
• Services of our resident guide.

Not Included:

• Airfare: The cost of international fares varies depending on origin. The internal flights within Argentina and Brazil are approximately $1,600 (subject to change, quoted May 2010). This cost will be added to your reservation and due along with your final payment.
• The Brazilian visa fee of $100 and any fee charged by a visa company for their assistance in obtaining your Brazilian visa.
• Taxi transfer from the Buenos Aires airport to the hotel on August 30.
• Bottled beverages except for water provided in the vehicles and soft drinks with picnic lunches in the field.
• Any item of a purely personal nature such as room service and laundry.
• Items not on the menu of included meals.
• Gratuities: Tipping is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting $12 per day per participant (a total of $240 per participant) to be distributed among the resident bus driver, boatmen and any local guides.

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Sign-up

To Make a Reservation: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Other Details

Leader: Ricardo Clark, whom we have worked with since 1992, has an extensive background in ecology and ornithology, and works through the Yuchan Foundation to protect the amazingly diverse northern Argentine habitats in the Andes, Yungas Cloudforests and dry and wet Chaco to the east. Prior to establishing Clark Expediciones in Salta, Ricardo worked in the Argentine National Park Service and published a field guide to the birds of Tierra del Fuego, having spent several years working in this wild and beautiful southern extremity of the continent. Ricardo is considerate, outgoing, and friendly, and has great enthusiasm for high-energy safaris with long days in the field. He is an accomplished tour leader with a perfect command of English and, in addition to Brazil and Argentina, has also led our wildlife tours in Peru, Chile, and Bolivia. We have designed this outstanding itinerary with Ricardo to create the best possible experience in the Andes, Iguazu Falls, the Pantanal and the Amazon Basin.

Flights: Your inbound flight should arrive in Argentina at the Buenos Aires - Ezeiza International Airport (EZE) by the morning of August 30. Most international flights arrive around mid-morning, giving plenty of time to take a taxi to the Americas Towers Hotel and meet our leader, Ricardo Clark, in the lobby at 12:30 pm. Fly homeward on September 20 from Manaus, Brazil. Please let us know if you would like help arranging your international flights.

The internal flights will be finalized closer to the date of the trip. These flights will be arranged by Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris with the cost will be added to your reservation and due with your final payment. The present internal flight schedule listed below lists only the dates and airlines and airports, as flight times are not yet known.

Travel Insurance: Emergency Medical Insurance is optional, but encouraged, for this tour. Read about travel insurance and our recommendations and requirements.

Climate: Temperatures vary greatly. The plateau areas are higher and not humid; the Andes can be surprisingly cool all year with rain. The Pantanal and Amazon Basin are normally hot at this season, especially at midday. This is the dry season in the Pantanal when the rivers are the lowest giving us a chance to encounter wildlife along the exposed riverbank. It is important to bring clothing for both cool and warm weather, but also try to travel as light as possible.

Health Concerns: Consult your physician about vaccinations, inoculations, malaria prophylactic, etc. Vaccinations and inoculations are not required to enter Argentina. We recommend a Tetanus shot and Hepatitis A vaccination. We also recommend that you drink bottled or filtered water or bring a "Steripen" to quickly sterilize the tap water. In some places the water is very good to drink, such as at Selva Montana and at La Paya Ranch in Argentina. Bring all medicine that you require.

Non-smoking Policy: We have a strict non-smoking policy - smoking is not permitted at any time during our tours.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or contact us to give us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is registered as California Seller of Travel #2063050-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California. Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is a participant in the Travel Consumer Restitution Corporation (TCRC). In event of a client canceling where a refund is applicable in accordance with the schedule above, or in the event that CES needs to cancel the trip, all payments for transportation or travel service not provided to the client shall be promptly refunded, unless the client instructs us otherwise in writing. All client payments are deposited into a trust account in accordance with California law. If for any reason a valid refund is not forthcoming, the client may request reimbursement from the TCRC within six months of the scheduled end of the tour. Please feel free to ask us for more information.

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All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris.
All photos © Doug or Ted Cheeseman, unless otherwise credited.
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