BIRDING in BHUTAN
High in the Majestic Eastern Himalayas
April 2 - 26, 2009

Above: Green-tailed Sunbird
Top: White-browed Shrike Babbler (female)

Cost: $7950. Review cost details.

Leaders: Hishey Tshering and Gail and Doug Cheeseman.

Outfitters: Bhutan Birding and Heritage Travels, whose motto is "Come as our Guest. Depart as our Friend!". Travel in a modern Toyota Coaster Bus with our outstanding driver, Pa La (meaning Daddy in Dzonghan). Our camp staff will travel by truck to set up on the six nights we are camping. Excellent tents, bedding, also shower tents and toilet tents, will be provided.

Size: 12 plus leaders.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari.

Itinerary updated: May 2008

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Introduction to Bhutan

The Kingdom of Bhutan is about the size of Switzerland and nestled between Tibet and India, really one of the Earth's last unspoiled areas. You will truly enjoy the intact Buddhist culture, which is integrated into every aspect of people's daily life in this "land of the peaceful dragon". Bhutan has 20 peaks over 23,000 feet. It is a wonderful place to enjoy stunning Himalayan mountain scenery on a clear day amongst un-logged forests and picturesque valleys with terraced fields, while also seeing spectacular birds. We will have an amazing trip across the prayer-flag laden passes of this country along roads providing sumptuous images. We will continue traveling easterly adding new species and absorbing the culture and at the end depart from Bhutan through Assam, India to Kolkata (formerly Calcutta).

Geographical Map of Bhutan

Buhtan is such a unique destination in this rapidly changing world that it will be a most memorable adventure. Until recently, Bhutan's remoteness, steep terrain, and tightly controlled tourism have ensured that its incredible beauty and fascinating people remained a quiet secret known only to a few. Bhutan was closed to outsiders until 1960; its first roads were built in 1961; no tourists were officially permitted until 1974. Even today, one is more likely to encounter red-robed monks than a group of foreigners. Amidst cultural and political upheavals elsewhere in the region, Bhutan is the only remaining intact Himalayan Buddhist kingdom.

Bhutan is going through a transition and there will be many things happening in 2008. Firstly, there will be the official coronation of the 5th King (the 4th King abdicated since 2006) and the Kingdom will also be celebrating 100 years of monarchy, which was established on 17 December 1907. But the most important event will be the general elections. Bhutan will become a democratic country after 2008. The citizens of Bhutan have a very benevolent King and he must perhaps be the only ruler in the world currently who is giving up his own power and introducing these changes. It was the vision of the 4th King to usher in these changes in times of peace and he abdicated in December 2006 in favor of his son, although he was only 51 years old. Other changes are happening. The capital of Bhutan, Thimphu, now the size of a town, not a city, is growing very quickly with a population growth rate of over 7% per year, as it attracts sons and daughters to settle there, where they can make a better living than staying on the family farmland.

This shining cultural gem is a birder's paradise. Its moist climate and wide altitudinal range from sub-tropical lowlands to mountain peaks provide an array of climatic conditions and habitats. We'll walk in jungles, temperate forests and tundra. Over 70 percent of the country is forested, and unlike other Himalayan countries, most of Bhutan's original forest remains intact. The Buddhist philosophy of respect for all living things and a progressive governmental approach to preservation of the environment and the promotion of Bhutan's unique culture and traditions have maintained a healthy environment where wildlife flourishes. As a result, Bhutan lies in an area designated as one of the world's ten biodiversity hotspots.

Over 600 birds include some of the most exotic and rare species in the eastern Himalayas. Ten species of birds that are in danger of extinction are found in Bhutan, including the Black-necked Crane, which traditionally winters in the valleys of Phobjikha and Bomdeling. The diversity of bird life in Bhutan is accentuated by the migrations of hundreds of species between breeding grounds across a vast expanse of central Asia and wintering areas on the subcontinent of India between November and March.

In addition to having an astonishing diversity of birds in a country no larger than Switzerland, Bhutan is home to at least 165 species of mammals, including Golden Langur, Leopard, Rhinoceros and Elephant in the lowlands, Red Panda, Himalayan Black Bear and Musk Deer in the middle-elevation forests, and Takin grazing on grasses in alpine meadows along mountainsides. Tigers might be found anywhere from the bases of the foothills to above tree line. All the mammals are very elusive and encountering them is difficult. We will see the beautiful Golden Langur, which is a rare primate found only in Bhutan.

Beautiful Rhododendrons

Bhutan's flora is no less impressive. More than 600 orchid species (including at least 50 that are endemic), 46 species of rhododendrons (4 endemic), and more than 300 species of medicinal plants are found within its borders. Our trip is timed for April and May in the spring, the season when flowering plants are ablaze and birds are most colorful. The weather has warmed up, although it will still be very cool at the high elevations, especially in the night and early mornings. During our travels across Bhutan, we will see a wide variety of beautiful rhododendrons wildflowers, bird life, and scenic wonders. Our walks and drives will take us through virgin forests, across high open pastures, and to Bhutan's most extensive high-elevation wetlands, as well as to mountain villages and monasteries. The roads we travel are remote, so the traffic should be very limited.

Throughout the trip we will see and occasionally stop to visit the impressive goembas (monasteries), dzongs (the monastery fortresses that serve as Bhutan's administrative and religious centers), lhakhangs (temples), and chortens (stupas) that are important features of Bhutan's past and present religion and culture. We'll have opportunities to examine traditional Bhutanese arts and crafts, which represent an exciting and vital aspect of Bhutan's living heritage, and which reflect Bhutan's spiritual and intellectual life. Surrounding us at every turn will be examples of Bhutan's distinctive architecture with its traditional shapes, colorful patterns, outrageous "motifs," and an unmatched combination of engineering skill and aesthetic beauty.

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Itinerary in Full

Political Map of Bhutan

April 2 - 4, Thursday - Saturday: Flights to Bangkok
We can help you to make your own flight arrangements to depart on April 2 or 3, depending on flight schedules to arrive in Bangkok for overnight on April 4. A daily non-stop Thai Air flight departs from LAX at 11:10 PM and arrives at 6:40 AM (2 days later). The Thai Air flight from JFK departs at 11:35 AM to arrive at 4:10 PM also two days later. Both cross the International Dateline (lose one day) and arrive at Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK), the amazing new international airport outside Bangkok. Flights are also available on Northwest and United from SFO via Tokyo to BKK. We will arrange the flight from Bangkok to Paro, Bhutan that will leave early on April 5.

Note: Plan to arrive on April 5 and depart on 25 to avoid an extra charge of $40 per day by the Bhutanese government. The government allows a special reduction for groups, so you must arrive on one of these days to show that you are part of a group of three or more people.

Lodging: Novatel Hotel at Suvarnabhumi Airport on April 4 (meals on your own)

April 5, Sunday: Arrival in Bhutan
Depart Bangkok in the morning for Paro, Bhutan, on Druk Air, the national airline of Bhutan. The tickets will be issued in Bhutan by Druk Air, handled by Hishey Tshering, owner of Bhutan Birding and Heritage Travels. There is a daily flight from Bangkok and it will either depart between 4:30 AM to 6:50 AM and might make a stop in Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), India, depending on the schedule that day. From Kolkata it is another hour to Paro, arriving between 8:30 and 10:50, depending on the departure. Flights are also available from Delhi and Kolkata on certain days. Upon arrival at the Paro Airport, we will be met by Hishey Tshering, who will drive us to our hotel. On this drive from the airport to Hotel Janka, where we will be staying for two nights, near the Paro River, we might see our first very special Himalayan shore bird, the Ibisbill, although unlikely, as it is quite camouflaged and is rare. It can easily be mistaken for a stone along the river until you put your binoculars on it. Throughout this tour, the food will be excellent, a combination of Indian, Chinese, and Bhutanese. After a great lunch, enjoy the excitement of the first day of the Paro Festival.

Bhutan is a country of festivals. The most important are the religious dance festivals, known as Tshechus, which are held in different districts, at specific times during the year. The Tshechus are celebrated for three to five days. These festivals, which are held in honor of Guru Rimpoche, commemorate his great deeds. Dances with deep religious significance, especially in the tantric context, are performed. The Tshechus are important religious festivals and it is believed that by attending them one gains merits and blessings. They are not sombre formal religious affairs, but occasions to get together, renew acquaintances, and make merry. The atsaras (traditional clowns of the Tshechu) add color and merriment to the festival by their bawdy antics. Tshechus attract crowds that sometimes come from the remotest of villages. In a swirl of color and noise, the gods and demons of Buddhist mythology come to life. Masked and sword dances and other rituals are performed in the courtyards and temples of the Dzongs during festivals. The origin of most of the dances can be traced beyond the Middle Ages and are only performed once or twice a year. Each dance has its own significance and is performed by monks and villagers. The most popular festivals for tourists are those held in Paro during spring and those at Thimphu and Bumthang in autumn. The colorful ceremonies, religious theatre and exorcism ritual, are the most striking testimonies to the deep-rooted faith of Bhutan's society.

we'll also explore the beautiful valley of Paro and the ruins of the Drukgyel Dzong. The valley of Paro is mainly Blue Pine forests, which does not have the diversity of bird life found in the many broadleaf habitats to the east, but the woodlands around the Drukgyel Dzong area provide a hint of the great variety that is to come in the next three weeks. Some of the species that can be seen in this area include Black-faced Laughingthrush, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Brown Parrotbill, Chestnut-tailed Minla, Common Kestrel, Kalij Pheasant, White-collored Blackbird and Grey-backed Shrike.

Elevation: Paro is 7600 feet
Lodging: Janka Hotel in Paro

Paro Festival

April 6, Monday: Paro Festival and afternoon drive to Thimphu
we'll have a full morning watching the festivities and visiting the Paro Dzong, as well as the National Museum, located just above the festival ground. After an excellent hot lunch, the two hour drive, allowing time for stops, from Paro to Thimphu follows the river valley between the two towns through Blue Pine and some alpine scrub. Sometimes Grey Langurs are active along the rock cliffs beside the road. we'll stop whenever you are inspired to take photos, as the scenery, including bridges, chortens and farmland, is very impressive. In April the abundant flowers are at their very best, but the skis are often cloudy, so do not expect crisp blue skies everyday, as is common here in the winter months. Arrive in Bhutan's capital, Thimphu, for dinner and overnight at the Riverview Hotel overlooking the Thimphu Chu across from the large stadium where the coronation of the 5th King will take place. The elevation in Thimphu is 7700 feet (2300 meters).

Lodging: Riverview Hotel for two nights in Thimphu

April 7, Tuesday: To Jigme Dorji National Park and return to Thimphu for the afternoon
Like Paro, the Thimphu valley is relatively dry and is surrounded by Blue Pine forests. But to the north of the city in the religious valley of Tango and Cheri and Jigme Dorji National Park, where the vegetation is mainly evergreen oak forest with bamboo. Jigme Dorji NP is huge, but the concept of national park in Bhutan reflects sustainable use of the park for people to flourish, as well as the fauna and flora. People own private land within the national park and are assisted by the Department of Agriculture to maintain small herds and allow the forests and wildlife to flourish. With an early departure (It's light out by 5 am), perhaps encounter Assamese Macaques, Common Grey Langurs and even Goral (a small goat), as well as many birds, such as the Crested Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Spotted Nutcracker, and Oriental and Large Hawk cuckoos. Stop on the return at a place with rock-bee hives hanging from a cliff to look out for the rare Yellow-rumped Honeyguide feeding on the honey comb. It is one of the globally threatened birds relatively easily found in Bhutan, due to many cliffs along the roads with rock-bee honey combs. Also we'll stop at the monastery in this valley before returning to Thimphu for lunch. Later in the afternoon we shall have some time in Thimphu to buy stamps, post cards and maps at the post office and visit a weaving museum and other very interesting places, including a close-up view of the national mammal, the Takin, which are protected in a fenced area on the edge of town. We will visit the Thimphu percolation ponds along the river, where the enigmatic Ibisbill is fairly common, along with other shorebirds, such as Green Sandpiper and Common Sandpiper, if we missed the Ibisbill along the river in Paro. White Wagtails and two species of redstarts, the Plumbeous and White-capped, also enjoy feeding along the rivers and streams. We may even see the elusive Black-tailed Crake, as well as the Common Snipe.

Elevation: Tango and Cheri are 8500 feet.
Lodging: Riverview Hotel in Thimphu

Dochu La Pass

April 8, Wednesday: Up Dochu La and down to Punakha Dzong and night in Wangdi
Depart early for some delightful birding at Dochu La. Here we shall be looking out for high elevation, mixed evergreen and cool broadleaf forest birds. Only these colorful birds, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Red-tailed Minla, Mrs. Gould's Sunbird, and Green-tailed Sunbird, can match the stunning blossoms of rhododendrons and magnolias that dot the entire hillside. At the 10,000 feet summit of Dochu La one of the Queens of Bhutan built an auspicious number of chortens, a total of 108, to commemorate the victory of the 4th King when insurgents from Assam invaded Bhutan earlier in this century. The wailing call of the Hill Partridge can be heard everywhere, although very challenging to see. The temperate broadleaved forest of rhododendrons and magnolias will soon give way to a semi-tropical zone, where banana and orange trees are cultivated in abundance. Here look out for Eurasian Treecreeper, Golden Bush-Robin, niltava species, Eurasian Jay, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Plain-backed Thrush, and Great Barbet and perhaps even the rare Ward's Trogon. The sudden appearance of low elevation species, such as Red-vented Bulbuls and Common Myna, is a reminder of the astonishing diversity of Bhutan within such short distances. The vegetation changes mainly to Chirpine, a lower elevation conifer.

By midday drive to Punakha, where we would not want to miss visiting the majestic Punakha Dzong. Before the capital moved from Punakha to Thimphu, Punakha Dzong was the seat for the kings and lamas. It was strategically built in 1637 at the confluence of the Pho Chuu and Mo Chuu, meaning male and female rivers. After lunch we'll drive down the mighty Puna Tsang Chu south, which will be our first attempt to look out for the extremely rare White-bellied Heron. Hishey has been responsible for initiating the survey of this rare bird through a donation made by a former client in 2002. Since then, the heron nest has been regularly sighted, the first since 1929. Though very rare elsewhere, the heron has been regularly located along both the Puna Tsang Chu and Pho Chu, also sometimes spelled Po Chu or Pho Chuu, depending on which spelling used. (Note: The Bhutanese languages, Dzongkha and others, are all based on oral tradition. Therefore you will frequently find more than one way to spell names, such as Zhemgang or Shemgang.) Another exciting rare bird we may encounter while looking for the White-bellied Heron is the Palla's Fish Eagle.

Lodging: Hotel in the Wangdi Phodrang District

April 9, Thursday: From Wangdi Phodrang to Tongsa (Trongsa) over Pele La
We will want to leave very early for the hour's drive up to Pele La at 11,200 feet. Monal Pheasants, Satyr Trogopan and the Great Parrotbill are distinct possibilities here. From the Pele La in sub-alpine conifers and bamboo we start down into central Bhutan. The drive is very scenic and the recent Bhutanese film, "Travelers' and Magicians", was shot along this road. Nearly an hour before we reach there on the winding road, we'll have our first glimpse of the Trongsa Dzong across the breathtaking depths of the Mangde Chhu Gorge. Built atop the crest of a narrow ridge, it is, without doubt, the most spectacularly sited dzong in all of Bhutan. It's perched so far above the river that the clouds frequently float below it. The Yangkhil Resort is in a superb location and built in the superb Bhutanese architecture that is so photogenic. Also it is surrounded by beautiful grounds laid out with a prayer wheel powered by water and prayer wheels powered by hand. we'll hope for clear skies to get spectacular photography from the lodge of the Dzong and surrounding valleys. Laundry can be left to pick up when we return in 3 days.

Lodging: Yangkhil Resort

Farm House

April 10 - 11, Friday - Saturday: Birds and Golden Langurs south to Shemgang
From Trongsa we drive on a road with beautiful waterfalls and ferns at every switchback until we reach the bottom of the valley and then again ascend to an elevation of about 6500 feet at Wangdigang. we'll drive through a big agricultural area, then more diverse forest habitats, including huge moss laden trees perfect for the incomparable Beautiful Nuthatch. Hishey has had 100% success so far in the quest of this exquisite nuthatch. We will spend more time here on our return back to Trongsa when with an early arrival the birds are by far the most active. The open farmland is impressive, due to the amazing rice terraces down the steep hillsides where Crested Bunting can be seen perched on shrubs along the road, maintaining their territories. we'll meet our camp staff for dinner by 7 pm, allowing plenty of time for a good sleep to be ready by 5 AM for more great wildlife action. we'll have tea, coffee and biscuits before departing, then breakfast between 8 and 9 AM and lunch normally about 12:30 and dinner at 7.

During the three days in the Zhemgang District, we will be birding along the Zhemgang-Tingtibi Road, as well as side roads and trails. Specialties include the Fire-tailed Myzornis, the Cutia, the Sultan Tit, Yellow-cheeked Tit, several species of fulvettas and laughingthrushes, Rufous-breasted Bush-Robin, Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, White-browed, Black-eared, Green and Black-headed shrike babblers, Golden Babbler, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Gray Peacock Pheasant, Red-headed Trogon, several species of cuckoos, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Pintailed Green Pigeon, White-browed and Speckled piculet, and Scarlet Finch. Rufous-necked Hornbill and Great Hornbill are distinct possibilities. Besides birds, the endemic Golden Langur is also common here, so we will spend time with these special primates. In fact, our campsite is in the middle of this rare primate's range. We also should encounter the Black Giant Squirrel and the Yellow-necked Marten, two other very special mammals.

Elevation: Camp is 2000 feet, but we will be exploring elevations between 2000 to 8000 feet in mixed broadleaved evergreen forests
Camping: Camp near the town of Zhemgang for two nights

April 12, Sunday: More great birds and mammals from Zhemgang back to Tongsa
Arrive at the best place in the broadleaved evergreen forests to see the Beautiful Nuthatch by dawn, so we will plan to depart from our camp very early. Enjoy an amazing day of superb scenery and wildlife, as we return to Trongsa once again for overnight at Hotel Trongsa.

Elevation: Trongsa is 7000 feet.
Lodging: Yangkhil Resort

April 13, Monday: Over three passes with spectacular rhododendrons to camp at 10,000 feet
Above Trongsa the road climbs through many switchbacks, then passes through a misty forest of Silver Fir and bamboo on the way to Yotong La (11,600 feet). The drive through magnificent rhododendron and magnolia forest is simply breathtaking. White-browed Fulvettas, Grey-crested Tits, Coal Tits, and gangs or as Hishey calls them, "posses", of White-throated Laughingthrush are active at this season here. The elusive Fulvous Parrotbill is also a possibility and the beautiful Gold-naped Finch. Once we cross the Yotong La Pass, the vegetation is mainly spruce and Silver Fir forest with plenty of bamboo undergrowth. As we descend further, it then changes to Blue Pine forest, where the birdlife is not especially diverse. But Bumthang is the only district in Bhutan where we will find the Black-billed Magpie. Today we bypass Jakar and on our return in 6 days, we shall spend time exploring the town of Jakar or Bumthang, the largest town in the Bumthang district. Later in the afternoon drive over two more passes further east to the beautiful alpine valley of Ura. Ura (elevation 10,000 feet) is a large, compact, and quite wealthy agricultural village, since the advent of potato farming. It has an attractive temple and cobblestone "streets". Beautiful Rosefinch, White-browed Rosefinch, Red-billed Chough, Spotted Nutcracker, Russet Sparrows, Black-billed Magpie and Rufous-breasted Accentor are some of the birds that can be seen foraging in the open fields.

Elevation: Ura is 10,000 feet
Vegetation: sub-alpine and open habitats
Camping: Camp at Gayzamchu

Satyr Tragopan

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April 14, Tuesday:Move camp lower to 9000 feet
We leave early in the morning before the flow of traffic begins with the hope of catching some of the most beautiful pheasants of the Himalayas feeding along the road. Blood Pheasants feed in the open by the roadside at dawn. If lucky, we should also see Monal Pheasant, as well as the Satyr Tragopan. Flocks of Snow Pigeons have also been frequently sighted flying across the valley or foraging in the farmlands. A big sign amid the prayer flags at the top of Thrumsing La, 12,435 feet or 3,700 metres, marks the high altitude boundary of Thrumshing National Park. At this season it is a rhododendron paradise with over twenty species of rhododendrons in this area of the NP, six of which are endemic to Bhutan. The beauty of the landscape against the backdrop of brightly colored rhododendrons in full blossom is unmatched. Here we shall check for the gorgeous Fire-tailed Sunbird and other forest birds, such as Rufous-gorgeted and Ultramarine flycatchers, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Red-headed Bullfinch, Collared and White-winged grosbeaks, Rusty-flanked and Eurasian treecreepers and a variety of tit species. we'll hope for clear skies, but we'll have another chance for excellent light on our return in four days. From the pass it is another hour down to the alpine village of Sengor. We shall camp a little further down from the village, which is the prime Satyr Tragopan habitat. Besides the Tragopan, other intriguing species reported in this area include the Bar-winged Wren Babbler and the Spotted Laughingthrush.

Elevation: Sengor is 9000 feet
Vegetation: mainly cool broadleaf and fir forest
Camping: Camp near the village of Sengor

April 15, Wednesday: The road to Mongar
The stretch of road from the pass at 12,435 feet down to 2,000 feet is considered to offer the best birding in Asia. Leaving the cool broadleaf forest above for our return later this week, today we explore the wonderfully rich, subtropical, warm broadleaved forest along the lower section of this road (8000 to 2000 feet). After lunch near the small village of Yongkhola in the middle of the best warm broadleaved habitat, we will stop along the way in good habitats for Capped Langur and many birds, as we drive the short distance to the picturesque, photogenic town of Mongar in eastern Bhutan, where we will stay at the Druk Shongar Hotel. The town of Trashigang, a little further to the east, which used to be the biggest town in Eastern Bhutan was recently overtaken by Mongar's increasing population.

Elevation: Mngar is 2000 feet
Vegetation: mainly subtropical, warm broadleaved forests
Lodging: Druk Shongar Hotel in Monga for two nights

Ward's Trogon

April 16, Thursday From Mongar cross Kori La to a wonderful forest and return to Mongar
A few miles from the hotel in Mongar we'll be at Kori La or the Korilla Pass (2298 meters), where the vegetation is mixed broadleaved evergreen forests. We'll spend the day in this area, where we should encounter families of Capped Langurs, plus other mammals, as well as the beautiful Long-tailed Broadbill that will be displaying and pairing up with a mate. Also look for Siberian Stonechat, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Ward's and Red-headed trogons, Gold-naped Finch, and Maroon-backed Accentor today. A hot lunch will be prepared by our camp staff for our picnic in a beautiful forest near the Guru Lhathang Monastery. We'll search for wildlife until time to head back to our hotel in Mongar for a good rest. The vegetation contains a diversity of broadleafed evergreen forest and open habitat.

Lodging: Druk Shongar Hotel in Monga

April 17 - 18, Friday - Saturday: To Yongkhola
We'll depart west from Mongar early to meet up later in the day with our camp staff at a great location to camp for two nights in the best lowland areas of Thrumshing National Park to bird between 2000 and 8000 feet. The lowland boundary of this ecosystem is at the Kuru Chu bridge close to Yongkhola and the highland boundary is at Thrumsing La at well over 12,000 feet. As already mentioned, the concept of national park in Bhutan is to sustain the people living there in a way to sustain also the diversity of habitats and wildlife. The main road traverses the park and is used for transportation of goods, as well as for the agrarian society that has traditionally lived in this huge eco-system. The specialties here are Ward's and Red-headed trogon; several species of scimitar babblers, parrotbills, Rufous-necked Hornbill, an assortment of warblers, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Hill Partidge, Satyr Trogopan, Speckled Wood Pigeon, Sultan and Yellow-cheeked tits, varieties of bulbuls, three species of tesias (Chestnut-headed, Slaty-bellied and Grey-bellied), flycatchers, laughingthrushes and others.

Camping: Yongkhola camp for two nights

April 19 - 20, Sunday - Monday Two great days of birding and culture in the Bumthang District
Drive back toward Bumthang with some great stops for birds, mammals, and spectacular rhodondendron blooms. This will take us most of the day, but the following day we will stay in the valley of Bumthang, which is also considered as the cultural heartland of Bhutan and hence has many temples. The valley is very scenic and has good places for walking and many sacred sites. Guru Rimpoche (also known as Padmasambava) introduced Buddhism to Tibet and the Himalayas, including Bhutan. He is often thought of as the second Buddha, and his image may appear more often in Bhutanese art than even that of the Buddha himself. All of the places where he is said to have visited and to have worked wonders on behalf of the Buddhist faith are regarded as sacred. During the time we are in Bumthang, we'll visit one of the most important of these, the temple complex called Kurjey Lhakhang. Guru Rimpoche was called to make his first visit to Bhutan to help the king of Bumthang, whose soul had been taken by a local deity. After meditating in a cave to gather his strength, the Guru outwitted and overpowered the deity, who restored the king's soul, and who became a defender of the Buddhist faith. A body (kur) imprint (jey) was left on the rock where the Guru had meditated. A temple was built to enclose the entrance to the cave in 1652. Two other temples were added during the 20th century. Three chortens in the courtyard mark the cremation sites of Bhutan's first three kings. We may have time to visit another important temple, Tamshing Lhakhang. Founded by Pema Lingpa, the great treasure reveller, Tamshing has religious paintings, which may be the oldest paintings in Bhutan.

Lodging: Gongkhar Guesthouse in Bumthang

April 21, Tuesday: Over passes and south to Phobjikha Valley
Today we shall backtrack south, then west over the beautiful passes overlooking the vast Black Mountains to the south and along the deep river gorges past Tongsa (Trongsa), where we take a different road south to Phobjikha (Phobji Ka). At 10,000 feet, it is a glacial valley and is the biggest wetland in Bhutan. It is the winter home of about 350 Black-necked Cranes that arrive in late October and start migrating back to Tibet by early March. Though unlikely, it is possible that we may see a few cranes still lingering. Because of the presence of the cranes, Phobjikha is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the Kingdom. The drive down from the pass into the valley is full of great surprises, such as Spotted Laughing-thrushes and brilliant sunbirds feeding on insects in rhododendron blossoms among unique larches endemic to the Himalayas. You'll enjoy the books on flowering plants that Hishey will carry with us in a small library box. We will spend time looking for three species of parrotbills (Black-throated, Brown and Great), Brown and Red-headed bullfinch, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker; Black-eared Shrike-babbler, Fired-tailed Myzornis, and Kalij and Monal pheasants. We will also greatly enjoy the beautiful Hotel Dewachen where we'll stay, a photographic delight in itself!

Lodging: Hotel Dewachen in Phobji

April 22, Wednesday: Bird along the dramatic river gorge of the Dang Chu up to Dochu La
It will be a different view of Pela La at 11,400 that we have returning west. We'll walk along the old road with little traffic, where we will find high altitude birds, such as rosefinches, Great Parrotbill, and grosbeaks and hope to encounter the Ghoral and Serow, two wild herbivores that do well in these habitats around Pela La. We'll arrive by late afternoon at the top of Dochu La, to spend the night in a new hotel and to hope to see the Bhutanese Himalayan in the morning if the skies are clear.

Lodging: Dochu La Hotel

April 23, Thursday: Return from Dochu La to Paro via Thimphu
There is a trail to walk in the forest here that may be very interesting to you. We'll bird around the Dochula area this morning, then drive to Thimphu for lunch and back to Paro to get ready for a big day tomorrow to Chelila Pass.

Lodging: at Janka Hotel in Paro for two nights

April 24, Friday: Very early to Cheli La on the road to Ha and return for lunch in Paro
We'll depart early at 4 AM for our 90 minute trip to the Chelila Pass, perhaps spotting a Grey Nightjar or even a Leopard Cat, a small cat that is nocturnal and frequently sighted at dawn. The road winds upward through the Blue Pine, which slowly changes to higher elevation conifers, such as spruce, hemlock, fir, and juniper. At the summit the vegetation is mainly dwarf rhododendrons and open alpine meadows. The pass, located at close to 13000 feet, is the highest road in Bhutan. If skies are clear, we'll get fantastic views of the sacred Mt. Jhomolhari and the adjacent Mt. Jichu Drake, both are over 20,000 feet. The pass offers a breathtaking view of the Haa and Paro valleys, but the weather is often cloudy in the spring. The quest for the day will be the incredibly majestic Monal Pheasant. Other specialties include Blood Pheasants, Spotted Laughingthrushes, Himlayan Griffon, White-browed Rosefinch and White-throated Redstarts. Collared Grosbeaks may respond to our tape. This is the only place we'll be above treeline in alpine scrub and dwarf rhododendrons (Rhododendron cinnabarinum, R. lanatum and others). After a breakfast of hot rice porridge and other goodies at the pass, descend to lower elevations, where resident birds include several species of tits, Red Crossbills, Kalij Pheasants, and Yellow-billed Blue Magpies. Later this afternoon and evening we'll have a farewell celebration.

Lodging: at Janka Hotel in Paro

April 25, Saturday: Fly to Bangkok to connect homeward or overnight in Bangkok
Take the morning flight from Paro to Bangkok. The Thai Air flight to LAX departs at 7:20 PM with the present schedule and arrives in LAX at 9:25 PM the same day and the Thai Air flight to JFK leaves at 12:40 AM to arrive at 7:10 am. Flights on United and NWA/Continental (code share) requires an overnight in Bangkok, as they depart about 6 am. An extra overnight at the Novotel beside the airport is about $190 per room with the present exchange rate. Gain back one day crossing the International Dateline and arrive home on April 25 or 26, depending on departure time from Bangkok.

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Costs

Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send trip materials, including a travel guide with trip essentials, reading list, species lists, and maps. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment. Insurance applications are available for trip cancellation insurance.

Included: Overnight in Bangkok on April 4. All specified activities, leaders, transport, park entry fees, accommodations. Meals from lunch on April 5 through breakfast on April 25. Non-alcoholic drinks while in our private mobile camps and bottled water throughout. Airport transfers, unless making a separate transfer on a different day.

Not Included: Travel Insurance. All airfare. and airport departure tax of $20 in Bangkok. Items of personal nature, toiletries. Staff gratuities. Any drinks at accommodations other than at our mobile tented camps.

Airfare: Round trip from Los Angeles to Bangkok approximately $1650 on Thai Air (not included). We will arrange the Bangkok to Paro round-trip flight on Druk Air, approximately $950 to be paid with the final payment (subject to change; quoted May 2008). Find flight schedule details in the Detailed Intinerary.

Note: Plan to arrive on April 5 and depart on 25 to avoid an extra charge of $40 per day by the Bhutanese government. The government allows a special reduction for groups, so you must arrive on one of these days to show that you are part of a group of three or more people.

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Other Details

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Hishey Tshering, our resident guide

Resident Guide: Hishey Tshering, the owner of Bhutan Birding and Heritage Travels and the one who has arranged this awesome trip, is based in Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, where he lives with his wife and family. After working with the Royal Society for the Protection of Nature and George Archibald, the co-founder of the International Crane Foundation, Hishey established his company in 1999. The Royal Society for the Protection of Nature (RSPN) is the only environmental NGO in Bhutan and Hishey is currently a member of their board. He also continues to work very closely with the International Crane Foundation. In 1998 he assisted the Crane Foundation in the first ever color banding and radio collaring program of the Black-necked Cranes to study their migratory route. Besides his travel business, he is the President of the Druk Stars Football Club (soccer in our country). His attention to details is amazing and his knowledge of Bhutan second to none. Despite the fact Bhutan has only been open to the outside world since 1974, Hishey is determined to keep the focus of his company on quality and personal service. He believes in the concept of Gross National Happiness, which he exudes from the moment he meets us at the International Airport in Paro until we depart.

Climate: Temperatures vary at this season from cold at high elevations to very comfortable, depending on the time of day. It will be very cool in the early morning and in the evening. It's the "dry" season, but rain could be encountered, although very unlikely. Bring a warm jacket that is rain and wind resistant. Insects are not normally a problem in Bhutan.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody

Travel Insurance: Unless you specifically decline travel insurance, Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris requires, at a minimum, insurance to cover emergency medical care and evacuation for the duration of the tour. We have had good experience with Access America. Visit their website for complete details and we will also send you their brochure with your trip materials. You can purchase a policy via their website, phone or by mail. Whatever insurance you purchase, be sure to review the terms of all available policies carefully in order to buy the policy that you need.

Baggage: When packing for your trip, please try to limit your checked bag to 40 pounds total per person. We ask that you keep it to one checked bag per person. The less weight the better, because of space restrictions in the baggage compartment of the vehicles. Also some international flights now limit checked luggage to 20 kilo (44 pounds) to avoid paying any excess baggage fees. As for the carry-on bags, this is standard as in all flights. Your bag will need to fit under the seat in front of you or in the overhead bin above. It is also going to have to fit with you throughout your trip, so packing lighter is recommended. However plan to bring whatever you require, as there is plenty of space in the vehicles for carry-ons and camera equipment. On safari we pay extra to give you more room in the Landcruiser stretch vehicles with a maximum of four people per vehicle, plus our drivers and guides.

Photo credits: Some photos used here are from from Hishey's guide, Chozang Tangbi, who has studied photography and ornithology in Wales. Other photos are by Hishey's clients, David Ressor and James Ownby.

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is registered as California Seller of Travel #2063050-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California. All payments for transportation or travel service not provided to the passenger shall be promptly refunded, in accordance with terms described above, unless the passenger otherwise instructs us, in writing. All client payments are deposited into a trust account in accordance with California law. This business is a participant in the Travel Consumer Restitution Corporation (TCRC). We will always make due refunds in a timely manner, as we have for over twenty years. However, if we didn't, you, the passenger, may request reimbursement from the TCRC within six months of the scheduled end of the tour. Please feel free to ask us for more information.
All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris

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