Svalbard
Mammals and Seabirds of the Norwegian Arctic
July 27 to August 8, 2011

Walrus

Svalbard is a Norwegian archipelago extending from 74° to almost 82° north, within 500 nautical miles of the North Pole. At this latitude, the sun will not set during our mid-summer voyage, providing endless possibilities for spectacular photography. Spend eleven days on board the MS Quest traveling through arctic waters among wildlife and icebergs. Enjoy encounters with Walrus, Bearded Seal, and possibly Ringed, Harp and Hooded seals. Keep a sharp eye out for Polar Bears stalking seals on the sea ice and scan the oceans for Belugas and other rare arctic whales. Explore amazing cliffs covered with cliff-nesting birds, where kittiwakes and several species of alcids breed by the thousands. As most of Svalbard is now protected, it contains some of the densest nesting sites in the northern hemisphere. Travel by Zodiac along the fjords to see large colonies of Pink-footed, Barnacle, and Brant geese, along with Common Eider, King Eider, Long-Tailed Duck, and Svalbard Ptarmigan. Landings will provide the opportunity to see Arctic Fox, Svalbard Reindeer (an endemic subspecies), Ivory Gull, and Snow Bunting. Incredible wildlife plus breathtaking glacial landscapes make this an unforgettable voyage!

At a Glance

Companion Safari: Demand was so high that we added a second expedition to Svalbard on July 17 to 29, just before this one. You may even consider taking both back-to-back!

Cost: $5,700 to $9,600 per person, double occupancy, depending on cabin choice. Cost does not include airfare. Review cost details.

Leaders: Ted Cheeseman, with Vidar Bakken, Bjørn Frantzen, 3 other guides and the ship's Captain.

Size: 51, not including leaders.

Days: 13.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in all wildlife and spending the maximum time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in September 2009. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:

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Detailed Itinerary

Map of Svalbard Islands

NOTE: Flexibility is paramount in expedition travel. July is the perfect time to visit Svalbard as ice still abounds while passages around the archipelago are still navigable, however, the following itinerary depends on the conditions at the time of travel.

July 27, Wednesday — Flights from home to Longyearbyen through Oslo, Norway
Depart at the latest by July 27 to connect in Europe to Oslo, although the flight schedules may require that you depart by July 26 or even July 25, giving you time for an overnight in Oslo. There are several choices for flights to Oslo, such as a daily non-stop from Newark to Oslo on SAS (Scandinavian Airlines). Review flight details and hotel options in Oslo.

July 28, Thursday — Morning flight to Longyearbyen and afternoon embarkation
Fly at the latest by this morning to Longyearbyen, the administrative center of Spitsbergen which is the only populated island in the Svalbard Archipelago. Upon arrival, you may transfer directly to our ship at the dock, located between the Svalbard Airport and town.

Longyearbyen is a charming town and well worth a visit, so if you wish to arrive earlier, we can arrange a hotel for you choosing from the Radisson to a simple guesthouse. The small town is colorful and its environs are bright with wildflowers beginning to bloom, Svalbard Ptarmigan (a subspecies of the Rock Ptarmigan) and Snow Buntings nesting on the outskirts. Longyearbyen, the northernmost town in the world, is home to a population of only 2,000 people. Three other small settlements include another 1,000 people, with most in the Russian settlement of Barentsburg. The rest of the 62,000 square kilometers of Spitsbergen, and the remainder of the archipelago, are largely pristine.

We board the MS Quest by 4:00 pm on July 28 and will depart at about 6:00 pm. The Quest will sail out of the Fjord Isfjorden by early evening. The waters are very calm compared to the Antarctic and due to the shallow seas and the northward flow of the Gulf Stream, the climate is much milder than one would expect so far north. The Arctic summertime will be in full swing, so bring plenty of sunscreen, as well as the other polar essentials like warm clothes!

July 29 - August 6, Friday - Saturday — Expedition Travel!
We are traveling in the heart of the summer season, a time that is brilliant for the density and vibrancy of bird colonies. We also can expect plenty of ice - the perfect place to find bears and seals. We will forge the itinerary around ice and weather conditions, crossing the Arctic Circle as we travel around the archipelago. The voyage will include wonderful diversions such as heading south to a little dot in the North Atlantic know as Bjørnøya (Bear Island). As this is an in-depth voyage dedicated to exploration of the unique and beautiful Arctic environment of Svalbard, each day will be filled with landings, zodiac cruising, and ship-based wildlife viewing. As we cruise looking for the special wildlife of Svalbard, lecturers will discuss wildlife behavior, geology, photography, and High Arctic history.

Seabird Cliffs on Bjørnøya (Bear Island)

If there is a lot of sea ice in the north, we'll go south from Longyearbyen into Bellsund Fjord and Hornsund Fjord down to the sea ice off south Spitsbergen. The small island of Sørkapp, just south of the southern tip of Spitsbergen, is where Harp Seals congregate to molt on ice floes. Another great area to explore is Bjørnøya (Bear Island) and the edge of the Continental Shelf west of Bear Island. This region is a good place to look for whales and foraging seabirds. Bear Island has bird colonies as dense as anywhere in the northern hemisphere. The bird cliffs here are phenomenal sea stacks that rise hundreds of feet out of nowhere, packed with birds, some of which breed here almost exclusively. The cliffs are on the west side of the island, which is more vulnerable to wind than the east, making landings more difficult. Weather permitting, we will be able to land and hike up from the east side of this narrow island to walk alongside the cliffs and look down from above the nesting area. In these waters, we have our best chance of seeing pelagic whale species such as Humpback, Blue, or Greenland (Bowhead) whale.

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Polar Bear on Pack Ice

As we travel, we will find the edge of the pack ice, very good for foraging Polar Bears, seals, and seabirds, plus chances for Bowhead Whales along the ice. We'll continue along the pack ice to the east until the ice brings us to North Spitsbergen, and maybe into Hinlopen Strait. We'll sail back along the west Spitsbergen coast with landings until we return to Longyearbyen.

In lighter ice conditions, we may begin by sailing north, concentrating on the ice along the Spitsbergen coast and crossing the Arctic Circle, an area rich in Walrus. Sail into the eastern parts of the Svalbard archipelago, very rich in Polar Bears, seals, and seabirds. At Diskobukta, on the west side of Edgeøya (and island east of Spitsbergen), we may land near an enormous Black-legged Kittiwake colony, which occupies both sides of a canyon. The kittiwake colony attracts Arctic Fox and female Polar Bears with young cubs preying on young birds falling from the nesting ledges. Glaucous Gulls pirate the cliffs as well. Along the landing beach, tree trunks have drifted all the way from Siberia and Northern Right Whale bones are scattered right into the inland tundra.

South of the big island of Edgeøya is Tusenøyane, a localized archipelago containing a myriad of small islands. Two of the tiny islands, Zieglerøya and Dielitschøya, have lakes where many birds nest including Red-throated Loons, Long-tailed Ducks, King Eiders, Brant Geese, and Red Phalaropes (known as Grey Phalaropes in Europe). These islands, and nearby Andreetangen, are breeding grounds for Walrus and a favorite hunting area of Polar Bears.

We'll visit some of the fantastic bird cliffs where Black-legged Kittiwakes, Northern Fulmars, and several species of alcids breed, including Dovekie, Black Guillemot, Brünnich's Guillemot (Thick-billed Murre), and Atlantic Puffin. We'll keep our eyes out for Narwhal, which on rare occasions pass through these northern waters in July. There is a decent chance to see Beluga in the southern fjords, and we'll see Polar Bears, seals, and Ivory Gulls where ice abounds. We'll get inland a bit to see goose colonies - Pink-footed, Barnacle, and Brant - along with Common Eider, King Eider, Oldsquaw, and Svalbard Ptarmigan.

Unlike Antarctica, Svalbard has terrestrial predators - the Arctic Fox and Polar Bear - so almost all of the birds nest on cliffs inaccessible to these hungry prowlers. The wildlife is not quite as approachable as in Antarctica, but because Svalbard never had an indigenous population, its wildlife is less afraid of people than in any other Arctic region. Reindeer, Arctic Fox, and Walrus can at times be approached within 20 feet. Polar Bear will also allow such proximity, but we will keep some distance!

While walking, we will stay alert for nesting shorebirds, such as Red Phalaropes, terns, and skuas. Arctic Terns and Arctic Skuas are quick to dive bomb if they are disturbed. Ivory Gulls breed on nunataks (from an Inuit word meaning "lonely peak"); these peaks poking up through the ice are mostly far inland. There is a chance to reach one Ivory Gull nesting cliff on foot, but mostly we'll see these beautiful gulls foraging along the sea ice, where they may be joined by a Ross' Gull. Also on land, we'll see Arctic Fox and Svalbard Reindeer (an endemic subspecies with very short legs). Our group will have the time, flexibility, and freedom to hike, view bird colonies, explore, and photograph while on shore, however, we must follow Polar Bear protection procedures, which involve staying in groups and keeping within sight of guides who are prepared to deal with Polar Bear encounters.

The following are more of the possible landing sites that we may visit as we circumnavigate Spitsbergen. First, a few notes about Norwegian geography terms (as seen in many of the following place names): "bukta" means gulf or bay, "sund" means sound, "sundet" or "stretet" means channel or strait, "øy" or "øya" means island, "landet" means land or country, "fjord" or "fjorden" means inlet (or fjord), and "breen" means glacier.

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Visiting a Glacier

Possible Landing Sites

• Hornsund - A major fjord south of Bellsund and north of the tip of Spitsbergen is the large and rugged Hornsund, which has 14 large glaciers and rich marine wildlife, including seabird cliffs, Polar Bears, seals, and Belugas, plus interesting geological formations. One of the major migration routes of a Polar Bear population is up Hornsund Fjord, across to the east side of Spitsbergen, south to the tip at Sørkapp, and back up the west side into Hornsund again. The mountain peaks on the south side of Hornsund, Hornsundtind and Bautaen, show why the early Dutch explorers named the island Spitsbergen, meaning "pointed mountains." A Polish research station is located in Hornsund Fjord and the mountains behind it are home to thousands of nesting Little Auks (Dovekies).
• Stormbukta - Going south, before reaching the tip of Spitsbergen, we may try to land at Stormbukta near a Kittiwake colony and postvolcanic springs.
• Sandhamna - Near Sørkapp Island, where Harp Seals like to molt at the southern tip of Spitsbergen, we may make a landing at Sandhamna. Due to different ocean currents that meet and swirl around this southern tip of land, dead animals are often washed ashore here, attracting Polar Bears to the area. The land is dotted with lakes, which are home to geese and loons, and, occasionally, migrant birds that have lost their way are also spotted here.

• 
  Arctic Fox

  Isbukta - On the southeastern side of Spitsbergen, Isbukta is a secluded ice-filled bay surrounded by a spectacular glacier front. Its waters are rich in marine mammals.
• Bölscheøya - This charming island is in the small archipelago of Tusenøyane, to the south of Edgeøya. Bölscheøya has many remains of Walrus and Right Whales. On a happier note, there are Red Phalaropes, Arctic Skuas, Red-throated Loons, and possibly the Pale-bellied Brant Goose, a subspecies found only on Spitsbergen, Franz Josef, and occasionally in Greenland.
• Aekongen - Also in this same multitude of small islands south of Edgeøya, Aekongen has a complete Right Whale skeleton, spectacular basalt rock columns, and Common Eiders often nesting in July.
• Risetreppen - There are two beautiful canyons located at Risetreppen in Keilhaubukta, south of Edgeøya. The canyons are home to small colonies of Black-legged Kittiwakes and Black Guillemots. There are also raised beaches littered with sub-fossil whale skeletons. The beaches are foraging areas for the hardy Spitsbergen Reindeer.
• Kraussbukta - Just north of Kvalpynten, the southwest tip of Edgeøya, there is a big Thick-billed Murre colony at Kraussbukta. The tundra here is covered with small ponds for breeding Red-throated Loons, Pink-footed Geese, and Grey Phalaropes.
• Freemansundet - At the northwest tip of Edgeøya we may proceed through Freemansundet, the strait between Barentzøya and Edgeøya. This passage is wonderful for observing Walruses, seals, and even the elusive Northern Right Whale, which was hunted to near extinction in the 19th century.
• Kong Karls Land - In the eastern part of the Svalbard Archipelago is Svalbard's most strictly protected nature reserve, Kong Karls Land. This is the most important denning area for Polar Bears and is a haven for seabirds and other mammals. Ships may not approach the reserve closer than 500 meters (1,650 feet); landings obviously are prohibited. Cruising northeast, we may pass Svenskøya, the westernmost island in Kong Karls Land. There will be plenty of pack ice and there is a good chance we will see Polar Bears, Harp and Ringed seals, Ivory Gulls, and Pomarine Jaegers (Skuas).
• Svartknausflya - On southern coast of Nordaustlandet, the most northerly of the major islands, is Svartknausflya, a "polar desert" that gets so little precipitation that even the hardy tundra plants cannot survive. The bare, sandy hills are a strong contrast to the world's third largest ice cap, several hundred miles long, which plunges into the sea not far away.
• Alkefjellet - If ice conditions permit, we will sail northwest through Hinlopenstretet, the strait that separates Spitsbergen to the west and the big island of Nordaustlandet to the northeast. Along Lomfjordshalvøya, a big glacial thumb protruding from the coast of Spitsbergen into the strait, are the bird cliffs of Alkefjellet. The basalt pillars, rising to hundreds of feet, and the overhanging ice cap with its waterfall are amazing. The cliffs are the breeding ground for thousands of Thick-billed Murres (Brünnich's Guillemots).

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  Mating Little Auks

  Augustabukta - On the eastern side of Hinlopenstretet, across from Lomfjordshalvøya, the huge island of Nordaustlandet offers more great wildlife sites. Augustabukta is a good place to see Spitsbergen Reindeer, Pink-footed Geese, and Walrus. We may also visit a cliff where the rare Ivory Gull breeds.
• Liefdefjorden - If the ice is light here in the northernmost regions of Spitsbergen, we may sail to the mouth of Liefdefjorden and go ashore for a walk on the tundra of Andøya. Many Common Eiders and Pink-footed Geese nest here and the less common King Eider may also be seen. Monacobreen, with its five-kilometer long face, is an impressive glacier at the end of this large fjord. Polar Bears have been seen on the glacier and the waters from its front are a favorite feeding spot for thousands of Kittiwakes.
• Raudfjorden - Further west along the north coast of Spitsbergen, Raudfjorden is a beautiful fjord with spectacular glaciers. It is home to Ringed and Bearded Seals, seabird colonies and surprisingly rich vegetation.
• Ytre Norskøya - The small island of Ytre Norskøya, on the northwest coast of Spitsbergen has an accessible breeding ground of Little Auks, Black Guillemots, Brünnich's Guillemots, Puffins and Arctic Skuas.
• Krossfjorden - On the west side of Spitsbergen, on our way back to Longyearbyen, Krossfjorden is a good place for a Zodiac cruise along the famed 14th of July Glacier or Fjortende Julibreen. Large numbers of Kittiwakes and Brünnich's Guillemots nest on the nearby cliffs. There is also a good chance to spotting Arctic Foxes below the cliffs and Bearded Seals in the fjord.

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  Red Phalarope

  Ny Ålesund - Just south of Krossfjorden is Ny Ålesund, the world's northernmost settlement. Once a mining village served by the world's most northerly railway, it is now home to a research base for the Norwegian Polar Institute. The tiny settlement is a breeding ground for Barnacle Geese, Pink-footed Geese, and Arctic Terns. Ny Ålesund is also the location of the anchoring mast used by Amundsen and Nobile in the airship Norge and by Nobile in the airship Italia before their flights to the North Pole in 1926 and 1928 respectively.
• Alkhornet - At the mouth of Isfjorden, the largest of all Spitsbergen's fjords, we may land at Alkhornet where seabirds nest on the cliffs and Arctic Foxes search the cliff base for fallen eggs and chicks. Also at the base of the cliffs, Spitsbergen Reindeer graze the relatively luxuriant vegetation. Continue up Isfjorden to return to Longyearbyen.

August 7, Sunday — Disembark and fights home
We will disembark after breakfast today and if your flight is late enough in the day, enjoy a walk on the outskirts of Longyearbyen to photograph and see the dramatic changes in the vegetation and nesting birds since we arrived. Also it will allow a chance to shop a bit before departing, depending on your flight time. We will dock very early on August 7 and you may disembark early if needed for a morning flight home. We are happy to give assistance with any overnights in Oslo on the return. Lunch is on our own today.

August 8, Monday — Arrive home or extend your trip
Contact us for trip extension assistance or recommendations.

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Staff

Ted Cheeseman

Ted Cheeseman (Ecologist, Expedition Leader, Lecturer, Zodiac Driver and Photographer) has traveled with Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris since the early 80's and has led and organized expeditions since finishing his graduate degree in conservation biology at Duke University in 2000. Ted's great passion is creating expeditions in which travelers can spend the maximum time possible with wildlife, believing that by coming to know wildlife and wilderness intimately, travelers will have even more respect for the value of wild places in their pristine state.

Vidar Bakken (Ornithologist and Marine Ecologist) has worked extensively as a seabird scientist during his employment of 14 years at the Norwegian Polar Institute. At present, he is on the faculty at the University of Oslo and at the University Centre in Svalbard. Every year since 1986, he has made expeditions to the Arctic and has frequently guided and lectured on Svalbard voyages. He has written books on Arctic wildlife and brings an amazing knowledge of Svalbard to our voyage.

Bjorn Frantzen (Naturalist, Ornithologist, and Arctic Ecologist) brings a great sense of humor and personality in addition to his in-depth knowledge of the Arctic. As leader of the Norwegian Polar Institute's office in Svalbard, former president of the Norwegian Ornithological Society, and current head of the Svalbard Nature Conservation Society in Svalbard, he has extensive experience. Bjørn has also worked with nature conservation in the Russian part of the Barents Region and as a monitor of the oil transportation from the Russian Arctic to Europe and the USA.

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Ship

MS Quest

The MS Quest is a specially designed expedition ship with an ice-strengthened hull and state-of-the-art equipment to navigate safely through the ice and narrow waterways. This 160-foot, 1211-ton ship was built in Denmark in 1992 with the highest ice class to serve as a ferry on Greenland's west coast. In 2004/2005 she was completely refurbished to serve as a small and comfortable expedition ship. The MS Quest can carry 53 passengers in 26 cabins, all with sea views and private facilities. Triple cabins have upper and lower berths; all other cabins have two lower berths or a double bed. All cabins have a desk, chair, and ample storage space for clothes and equipment. The superior cabins are spacious and have a separate sitting area and TV/DVD. The Owner's cabin, next to the Captain's cabin on deck 4, has a double bed, two large picture windows, a sitting area and TV/DVD. The electrical current is 220 volts with European style twin prong plugs available in most rooms. Bring a suitable plug adapter for US equipment. Review more ship details including the deckplan.

Landings are made possible by a fleet of five zodiacs, accessed from the ship by a convenient hatch with no gangway to descend. Onboard, the bridge is always open to passengers, and in the panorama lounge you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the surrounding polar landscape. Here you can listen to entertaining lectures on the area's flora, fauna, history and glaciology as well as photographic techniques. In the lounge you also find a well-stocked bar and a small library. Meals prepared by an excellent European chef are served in a comfortable and spacious dining room, keeping us warm and full of energy for the next wildlife encounter.

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Costs

Costs and Payments: Upon receiving your deposit (see Payment Schedule below), we will send complete trip materials.

Single Occupancy: No single cabins are available. Double occupancy cabins may be booked on a single basis at 1.9 times the published rate. If you are willing to have a cabinmate, there will be no single supplement charge.

Cancellations: Refunds are given depending on the time left before departure according to the following schedule. You can purchase trip cancellation insurance that would refund your trip costs in the event of your cancellation. Please take a moment to learn if this insurance would be in your best interest. Read about travel insurance and our recommendations and requirements.

Included:

• Eleven days and ten nights on board the MS Quest.
• All meals from dinner on July 28 through breakfast on August 7.
• Six naturalist guides, including the resident naturalist onboard ship.
• Landing fees and port taxes.

Not Included:

• All airfare, including airport tax and arrival/departure taxes. International airfare is approximately $2,000 from the USA (east coast) to Longyearbyen, Spitsbergen (quoted September 2009).
• Excess baggage fees.
• Separate transfers in Longyearbyen.
• Overnights in Longyearbyen or Oslo.
• Meals except onboard ship (listed above).
• Gratuity to the ship's crew - we recommend $10 to $12 per day per person.
• Personal expenses such as bar, laundry, and shop charges.

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Other Details

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070

Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Flights: Arrive in Longyearbyen by the morning of July 28, at the latest. From your home airport, depart at the latest by July 27 to connect in Europe to Gardermoen Airport (OSL), located north of Oslo, Norway. Some flight schedules may require that you depart by July 26 or even July 25, giving you time for an overnight in Oslo. There are several choices for flights to Oslo, such as a daily non-stop from Newark to Oslo on SAS (Scandinavian Airlines).

There are at least five daily round trip flights between Oslo and Longyearbyen. They are operated by Braathens and can be booked through Scandinavian Airlines. There is a possibility that we will be able to offer a group fare for the round trip between Oslo and Longyearbyen. Braathens is the only airline that flies this route and it's a long flight, so the fare is quite expensive, about $750 to $800 per person. Approximately one year before the departure date, we will have the flight schedules and fares and will determine if you can save on the air costs by having a group fare Oslo/Longyearbyen/Oslo.

Depart from Longyearbyen on August 7 or later. An afternoon flight will give you time to explore the area, but if you prefer a morning flight, please check with us for early disembarkation arrangements.

Hotel Options: For extra nights in Oslo before or after your trip, we recommend the downtown Radisson which is located just across the street from the train station. This express train takes just under an hour from the airport to the downtown Radisson. There are many other hotel choices as well. There is one hotel located within walking distance at Gardermoen Airport, the Radisson Airport Hotel, diagonally across from the entrance to the airport. Enjoy some of Oslo's very interesting attractions, such as the Fram and the Kon-Tiki museums.

Travel Insurance: Emergency Medical Insurance is required for this tour. Read about travel insurance and our recommendations and requirements.

Conditions: Travel to remote places like the Arctic is exciting, but understanding and accepting the risks, both medical and logistical, is important. There is a small infirmary on board the ship and minor medical problems can be treated, but due to the remoteness of most of our itinerary, there can be no expectation for medical evacuation by air or ship, even in cases of trauma. If this fact concerns you too much, do not choose this trip for your vacation. Anyone with health problems needing close medical supervision should not consider going on this trip. Bring enough medication for the duration of the trip for any chronic medical needs, including medication or patches for seasickness. The waters of Svalbard are very sheltered and seasickness is not a problem for the majority of travelers; information about remedies will be provided in your trip materials. When you send your tour deposit and signed reservation form, you certify to us that you do not knowingly have any physical or other conditions that would create a risk for yourself or for other trip participants. Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris has a strict non-smoking policy.

Expedition Log: After the completion of your expedition, you can look forward to an illustrated expedition log mailed directly to you. This very descriptive log includes daily sightings, personal accounts, and excellent photographs from our incredible journey.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris.
All photos © Doug or Ted Cheeseman, unless otherwise credited.
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