Madagascar
Quest for Endemics
October 6 to 29, 2011

White-footed Sportive Lemur

This enigmatic and endangered land is home to some of the world's most unusual mammals, birds, and chameleons. We provide you with the time and leadership to watch and photograph Madagascar's uniqueness. You will encounter over 20 lemurs and over 150 species of birds on this itinerary with many close by for great photos. No other Madagascar tour follows our itinerary, including two nights at the beautiful Relais de la Reine, located in the spectacular Isalo Massif, three nights at Vakona, located between Perinet and Mantadia national parks, two nights at the famous Berenty Estates, as well as time in the renowned "Spiny Forest" at Ifaty, on the coast at Tulear and inland to the Zombitsy Forest. In Ranomafana National Park and Ampijoroa Forest Reserve night spotting is fantastic and during the day walking on the forest trails is very rewarding. October is the best time of year for great mating displays and other fascinating wildlife action.

At a Glance

Cost: $8,200 per person, double occupancy, based on 1.40 USD = 1.00 EUR. Not including airfare. Review cost details.

Leaders: Fraser Gear and Guy Germaine. At each reserve, resident naturalist/guides will also assist.

Size: 10, not including leaders.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in all wildlife and spending the maximum time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in January 2010. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:

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Detailed Itinerary

October 6 - 7, Thursday - Friday Flights to Antananarivo (commonly known as Tana)
We are happy to assist you with booking your own flights to arrive for an overnight on the evening of October 7 (included in your tour). See flight information. Upon arrival in Tana on October 7, meet our very experienced guides, Fraser Gear and Guy Germaine. We'll then drive 45 minutes to central Tana to our hotel. Meals are on your own these two days.
Lodging: Hotel du Louvre, Tana

October 8, Saturday: Lac Alarobia and Tsimbazaza Zoo and Museum in Tana
After breakfast this morning, walk at lovely Lac Alarobia, a small private sanctuary near Tana. Lac Alarobia protects large numbers of ducks and egrets and other waterbirds. White-faced Duck and Red-billed Teal will be there, usually accompanied by smaller numbers of Hottentot Teal, Knob-billed and Fulvous ducks and possibly the very rare Meller's Duck. There is a fantastic assortment of egrets that roost or breed in the sanctuary, including a few Madagascar Squacco Herons and Dimorphic Egret. Mascarene Martins are common overhead and in adjacent areas watch for more Madagascar endemics, which may include Madagascar Kestrel, Madagascar Coucal, Madagascar Swift, Madagascar Wagtail, Madagascar White-eye, Madagascar Mannikin and Madagascar Red Fody. We may also locate a chameleon or two.

This afternoon visit the Tsimbazaza Zoo and Museum to see the lemur breeding station and interesting skeletons of the Elephant Bird and extinct giant lemurs. There are also displays of most of Madagascar's unique mammals, birds, and fauna. Birding and photography here can be quite good, the prize sighting is a pair of Madagascar Little Grebes that can usually be found on one of the zoo ponds. You will see a huge, well-preserved egg of Aepyornis, the Elephant Bird, in the museum. This bird stood about ten to eleven feet and weighed approximately 1000 pounds. Located on a wonderful little island at the zoo is a group of Black Lemurs.

Tonight we will have dinner together at the Hotel du Louvre. You will be delighted by the delicious cuisine in Madagascar, a wonderful blend of French, Chinese, and Malagasy.
Lodging: Hotel du Louvre, Tana

October 9, Sunday: Fly to Mahajunga and overnight at the Zahamotel on the coast
With the present flight schedule on Air Madagascar, fly early in the morning to Mahajunga on the north-west coast of Madagascar for the first leg of our island adventure. After arriving in this sleepy town and checking into the hotel, perhaps stop at the museum followed by lunch with a little time to enjoy the location of the Zahamotel that is situated on an extensive beach right on the Indian Ocean. Later in the afternoon visit a nearby lake in hopes of seeing many waterbirds coming in to roost in the lovely late afternoon light.
Lodging: Zahamotel, Mahajunga

Paradise Flycatcher

October 10, Monday: Drive to Ampijoroa and overnight at the Ampijoroa Forest Station
Drive to Ampijoroa, a forest station situated in the extensive deciduous forests of the Ankarafantsika Reserve. Ampijoroa is famous as the home of World Wildlife Fund's Plough-shear Tortoise captive breeding program and is an ideal base from which to search for the numerous endemic birds of the region. Stop along the way at some of the many picturesque rice paddies and at Lac Amboromalandy for Yellow-billed Stork, Purple, Striated, Common Squacco and Malagasy Pond herons, and flocks of Black Egret, which we will watch as they perform their bizarre "umbrella-feeding" routine. We will enjoy watching striking Madagascar Jacanas strut through lily-covered wetlands past many other waterbirds including Humblot's Heron, Madagascar Little Grebe, African Pygmy Goose and Allen's Gallinule.

On arrival at the forest station, we should encounter numerous reserve residents, such as Broad-billed Roller, screeching Lesser Vasa Parrots, Crested Drongo, Madagascar Magpie Robin, Sakalava Weaver, Madagascar Hoopoe, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascar Green Pigeon and Madagascar Turtle Dove. We will spend the afternoon birding along the edge of the adjacent Lac Ravelobe, where we hope to find the critically endangered Madagascar Fish Eagle. A pair is resident here. Wintering Sooty and Eleonora's falcons might be seen hunting overhead, White-throated Rails favor the waterside vegetation and we may find Sickle-billed and Blue vangas moving along the forest fringe.

In order to experience the unique wildlife of this remote area, we will be accommodated in comfortable cottages that are newly constructed near Lac Ravelobe, called Gîte Ampijoroa. An advantage of lodging here is our proximity to the wildlife with the very active Coquerel's Sifaka and White-breasted Mesite right in the Ampijoroa Forest Station area. Dinners in the evenings with the background sounds of nocturnal lemurs and perhaps Torotoroka Scops Owls are sure to be some of the most memorable of our trip. Ampijoroa is one of the best places for night spotting for nocturnal lemurs.
Camping: Gîte Ampijoroa, Ampijoroa Forest Station

October 11, Tuesday: Ampijoroa Forest Reserve at dawn
We have a full day to explore the network of trails through the dry forest found here in search of the many mammals, birds and reptiles restricted to this region. No less than eight species of lemurs occur in the vicinity of the camp. You will enjoy observing the enchanting Coquerel's Sifaka, often seen with young, sometimes found right in the trees above the camp. Common Brown Lemur and the rare Mongoose Lemur can be found during the day and Western Avahi (Woolly Lemur), Milne-Edward's Sportive, Fat-tailed Dwarf and Grey Mouse lemurs after dark. If we are lucky, we may find the Golden-brown Mouse Lemur, one of the world's smallest primates and only known from 1998 around Lac Ravelobe (hence its scientific name Microcebus ravelobensis).

Foremost among the endemic birds at Ampijoroa is the secretive White-breasted Mesite and the jewel-like Schlegel's Asity, which gives one the impression of a miniature bird-of-paradise. We will also concentrate on finding the highly localized Van Dam's Vanga and the two species of coua that are restricted to these deciduous forests: Red-capped and Coquerel's Couas. Other birds we hope to see include Madagascar Crested Ibis, Madagascar Buttonquail, France's Sparrowhawk, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, and Rufous, Hook-billed, White-headed, Chabert's and Red-tailed Vangas.

Reptiles are also plentiful along the trails and we hope to see the impressive Giant Hog-nosed Snake, as well as several smaller species. No need to worry here - there are no venomous snakes in Madagascar! Oustalet's Chameleon (the world's largest species) and the aptly named Rhinoceros Chameleon, with its enlarged nasal protuberance can also be found. Impressively spiky Cuvier's Iguanids scurry around the reserve.
Camping: Gîte Ampijoroa, Ampijoroa Forest Station

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October 12, Wednesday: Morning at Ampijoroa and return to Mahajunga
Spend another full morning at Ampijoroa watching Coquerel's Sifakas that are normally feeding very close to our cottages and many birds active at this early time. After lunch, drive back to Mahajunga, with stops along the way to look at waterbirds and some beautiful scenery. Overnight in Mahajunga in a comfortable, beachside hotel renowned for its fine seafood, called the Zahamotel.
Lodging: Zahamotel, Mahajunga

October 13, Thursday: Boat trip up the Betsiboka Delta in Mahajunga, then fly to Tana
Enjoy a motorized boat ride up the Betsiboka Delta. This seldom-visited region is home to two of Madagascar's most rare and endangered birds, Bernier's Teal and Bernier's (Madagascar White) Ibis. The discovery of Bernier's Teal at this location in 1999 was very important. Other birds possible on this epic journey are Madagascar Heron, African Open-billed Stork, Greater Flamingo, African Spoonbill, Madagascar Harrier-Hawk, Terek Sandpiper, Crab Plover and Lesser Crested and Saunder's Terns. Fly back to Tana tonight (according to the present flight schedule).
Lodging: Hotel du Louvre, Tana

Indri

October 14, Friday: Early to Perinet Forest with some stops en route
We depart early from Tana for the 2-1/2 hour drive eastwards across the Highland Plateau to the famous reserve of Perinet (otherwise known as Analamazaotra). Hamerkop, Black Kite (Yellow-billed form), Plain (Brown-throated) Martin and Madagascar Cisticola are regularly encountered on the way. Our accommodation for the next three nights is the excellent Swiss-owned Vakona Forest Lodge, adjacent to the Reserve. Being so close to the reserve means that wildlife is often right on our doorstep: fluorescent green day geckos scuttle on the outside walls of our chalets and we may be serenaded by the beautiful songs of the world's largest species of lemur, the handsome Indri.
Lodging: Vakona Forest Lodge, Perinet

October 15, Saturday: Perinet Reserve - lemurs, ground-rollers, asities, and other endemics!
We will make a very special effort today to see Perinet's most famous resident, the Indri. A journey in search of these magnificent creatures is on a par with gorilla trekking in the mountain forests of Rwanda. We hope to be treated to a close encounter with a family group and their eerie, whale-like howling echoing through the forest. These beautiful creatures, with their bold black and white markings and pale green eyes, inhabit the taller forest and are particularly fond of ridge tops. Our excellent local guides will help us find the Indri and we have a good change to see them well during several visits. We also might see both Common Brown and Grey Bamboo lemurs, and we will also search known roosting sites for the nocturnal, but inquisitive, Small-toothed Sportive Lemur.

In the evening, we will embark on thrilling night walks into the reserve. Nocturnal outings are an essential part of any trip to Madagascar, and Perinet is one of the best sites for night spotting. Nocturnal avian specialties here include Madagascar Long-eared Owl, Rainforest Scops Owl, Madagascar Nightjar, and the rare and little known Collared Nightjar. Madagascar is also home to a number of species of lemurs that remain denizens of the night such as the Eastern Woolly, Greater Dwarf and the diminutive Brown Mouse lemurs. We should also find some of Madagascar's other evolutionary masterpieces such as the bizarre Lowland Streaked Tenrec.

The moist rainforest cloaking Madagascar's eastern escarpment protects the richest assemblage of birds on the island, including many that are rare or poorly known. Over 100 of these have been recorded from within the small reserve of Perinet. We hope to find Madagascar Flufftail, the elusive Madagascar Wood Rail, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Greater Vasa Parrot, Madagascar Cuckoo, Madagascar Spinetail, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascar Cuckoo-shrike, Ward's Flycatcher, Tylas, Madagascar Starling, Long-billed and Spectacled Greenbuls, White-throated Oxylabes, Nelicourvi Weaver, and Souimanga Sunbird.

Some of the most sought-after birds here are those of the five families endemic to the Malagasy region: peculiar mesites, exquisite ground-rollers, Cuckoo-Roller, asities and vangas. Some of these, such as the ubiquitous Madagascar Cuckoo-Roller, Pitta-like Ground-Roller, Common Sunbird-Asity and a number of the vangas are reasonably common and regularly encountered. Most of the others remain rare, local, or elusive. We will make a special effort to locate as many representatives of these charismatic families as possible, as well as those of the endemic sub-family, the couas.

In the forested hills around Perinet we hope to find the localized Red-fronted and Blue couas, Velvet Asity, and flocks of vangas that may include White-headed, Chabert's, Madagascar Blue, Red-tailed, Hook-billed, Pollen's, or the bizarre Nuthatch Vanga. Most taxonomists now regard the greenbuls of Madagascar as belonging in a separate family, different from the African ones. If we are lucky, we may locate some of Perinet's forest rarities, such as Madagascar Serpent Eagle or Dusky Greenbul. Highland marshes around the borders of the reserve support some of the most endangered birds on the island, including Slender-billed Flufftail. We would have to be very fortunate to see this extremely rare member of the rail family. Madagascar Rail, Madagascar Snipe and Madagascar Swamp Warbler are more likely and we may also find Madagascar Partridge and Madagascar Buttonquail in scrubby areas surrounding the wetland.

The island's reptile and amphibian ("herp") fauna is equally fascinating - a plethora of colorful and bizarre frogs, chameleons and geckos. In particular, we will search for the giant Parson's Chameleon and two species of eccentric leaf-tailed geckos, the huge Uroplatus fimbriatus and the aptly named Uroplatus phantasticus. Another unique member of the island's fauna is the Giraffe-necked Weevil, a tiny insect named for its unusually proportioned neck!
Lodging: Vakona Forest Lodge, Perinet

October 16, Sunday: Mantadia National Park for highland birds, lemurs and frogs.
A short distance from Perinet, Mantadia National Park protects a large expanse of primary forest at a somewhat higher altitude. Though it has only recently been opened to the public, Mantadia is now an essential destination with a reputation as an excellent site for the vocal Black-and-White Ruffed Lemur, the elusive Diademed Sifaka (considered by many to be the world's most beautiful lemur) and small numbers of Painted Mantella, a spectacularly colored forest frog.

Among the highly sought-after forest birds here are a number of species formerly considered to be restricted to the poorly accessible rainforests of the far northeast, such as Red-breasted Coua and Scaly Ground-Roller. We will concentrate on finding these, also watching for more widespread, yet no less desirable forest birds, such as Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Rufous-headed and Short-legged ground-rollers, Crossley's Babbler, Common and Dark Newtonias, Wedge-tailed, Green, Stripe-throated and Common Jeries, the newly described Cryptic Warbler (only discovered in 1992) and Forest Fody.

Madagascar Serpent-Eagle, Madagascar Red Owl and the magnificent Helmet Vanga are on the list, but we would have to be very lucky to encounter any of these rare species. Much of the birding in Mantadia National Park can be enjoyed from the wide road in the reserve, although seeing the skulkers of the forest will require that hike the steep and soemtimes slippery trails.
Lodging: Vakona Forest Lodge, Perinet

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Verreaux's Sifaka at Berenty

October 17, Monday: Drive to Tana, fly to Fort Dauphin, then drive to Berenty Lemur Reserve
After breakfast we will drive to the airport in Tana, take our flight to Fort Dauphin, and then drive to famous Berenty Lemur Reserve. The 2-1/2 hour drive to Berenty starts in the picturesque town of Fort Dauphin, then through well-watered valleys packed with rice fields, and finally into the rain-shadow of the Andohahela Mountains. Here we find the octopus-like Didierea trees that are diagnostic of the spiny forest. Berenty Reserve belongs to the De Haulme family who set aside sections of gallery forest along the Mandrare River to conserve the lemurs and other wildlife. The adjoining sisal plantation has been in the family a long time. A lot of research has been done in the Reserve on lemurs and several species are quite relaxed around people, creating unique photo opportunities. We shall also venture out in the evening in search of Torotoroka Scops-Owl and the impressive White-browed Owl, and a host of other nocturnal creatures, such as the strange Greater Hedgehog Tenrec and several species of attractive geckos (including the remarkable Big-headed Gecko and unique Fish-scaled Gecko).
Lodging: Berenty Lodge, Berenty

October 18, Tuesday: Berenty Lemur Reserve
Berenty is justly famous for its lemurs - not only because its deciduous woodland is home to five species, but also because they are relatively easy to find and watch . Red-fronted Brown Lemurs occur in large numbers during the day and both White-footed Sportive and Gray Mouse lemurs are regularly encountered on night walks through the reserve. The undoubted favorites here are the Ring-tailed Lemurs and Verreaux's Sifakas. While the bands of cat-like, quizzical Ringtails are often the first to steal visitors' hearts (as well as any spare fruit they may have on their persons!), their appeal is easily matched by the strikingly patterned sifakas with their soulful expressions and unique bipedal dance. To spend time with groups of these gentle creatures will certainly be one of the highlights of our Madagascar adventure. A further highlight is the Madagascar Flying Fox roost, where about 300 of these impressive animals sporting four-foot wingspans spend their day squabbling and sleeping. However, close approach is discouraged so we don't disturb them. In addition to woodland birds, we will watch for the numerous Giant Couas. Potential new species we may find here include Long-tailed Cormorant, Peregrine Falcon, Madagascar and France's Sparrowhawk, Helmeted Guineafowl, Madagascar Sandgrouse, Alpine Swift and the very rare Bat Hawk.
Lodging: Berenty Lodge, Berenty

October 19, Wednesday: Berenty Lemur Reserve to Fort Dauphin
Take the morning to watch and photograph the approachable wildlife in Berenty, with many animals very close to the cottages and dining areas. Visit the well-presented local museum, which displays one of the few complete Elephant-bird eggs in the world. After breakfast, drive to Fort Dauphin for an overnight.
Lodging: Croix du Sud, Fort Dauphin

Hiking through the Spiny Forest

October 20, Thursday: Fly Fort Dauphin to Tulear and drive to Ifaty
We will take the morning flight from Fort Dauphin to the southwestern city of Tulear. Upon arrival, drive to our hotel in the small resort of Ifaty for a two-night stay at Lakana Vezo, a great small lodge right on the oceanfront. Stop en route to bird some wetlands and salt-pans which may hold numbers of Greater Flamingo, Black-necked Stilt, Kittlitz's Plover, assorted migratory waders and Madagascar Harrier if we are very fortunate.
Lodging: Lakana Vezo, Ifaty

October 21, Friday: Ifaty - the Mysterious Spiny Forest
Much has been written about the strange Didierea woodland, or "Spiny Forest", around Ifaty. We will be amazed at the strange adaptations as we set foot in this botanical wonderland. Venturing out in the cool dawn, we will stroll amongst the myriad multi-stemmed succulents, squat baobab trees and thorny scrub in search of such spectacular endemics as Banded Kestrel, Running and Green-capped Coua, Archbold's Newtonia, Thamnornis, Subdesert Brush-Warbler, and Lafresnaye's Vanga. Two very special birds here are the near mythical Sub-desert Mesite, which we may find adopting its strange, cryptic posture on a thorny branch, and the Long-tailed Ground-Roller, an elusive ground dweller best located by its low, hooting call. Flocks of noisy Sickle-billed Vangas are another feature of this bizarre, Tolkienesque landscape. As the day warms up, so does the reptile activity. We'll look for Three-eyed Lizards and may be lucky to find a Spider Tortoise or Dumeril's Boa. One afternoon bird some wetlands to the south of Ifaty, where Greater Painted-Snipe, Little Bittern, White-throated Rail and Baillon's Crake have been found on previous tours.
Lodging: Lakana Vezo, Ifaty

Long-tailed Ground-Roller at Ifaty

October 22, Saturday: Ifaty to Tulear
Visit the spiny forest for some early morning action, then drive southwards to Tulear for a two-night stay. In the afternoon, we will make a first excursion to a flat-topped mountain aptly known as La Tabla. The habitat of this desolate area is known as coral rag scrub and consists of dense thorny scrubs, Euphorbias and twisted Baobabs. We hope to encounter two species of birds with highly restricted ranges, Verreaux's Coua and the recently discovered Red-shouldered Vanga. Reptile life here is particularly rich with large, sleek Zonosaurus plated lizards and if very lucky, the stunning Dumeril's Boa and endangered Radiated Tortoise. We can expect to enjoy a sumptuous seafood dinner tonight in Tulear.
Lodging: Victory, Tulear

October 23, Sunday: San Augustin and Nosy Ve
This morning, board a speedboat to the small-uninhabited islet of Nosy Ve to the south of Tulear. The main attraction on Nosy Ve is its colony of approachable Red-tailed Tropicbirds that are left unmolested by local people due to a taboo or fady. We may find Crab Plovers roosting on the sandbars here and a good number of other migrant waders, plus a large gull and tern roost. We will have a chance for some very good snorkeling on the pristine coral reef encircling the island. We recommend that you arrange to rent fins, mask, and snorkel soon after arrival to take on the excursion. Enjoy a packed lunch on the island. On the way back, stop on the mainland opposite the island to search for Madagascar (Humblot's) Heron, Dimorphic Egret, other waders, and the localized Littoral Rock Thrush. In the afternoon we will explore the San Augustin Road and La Tabla again if there is time and we couldn't find the Red-shouldered Vanga yesterday.
Lodging: Victory, Tulear

Benson's Rock Thrush

October 24 - 25, Monday - Tuesday: Zombitsy Forest to spectacular Isalo National Park
An early morning departure from Tulear will take us to the dry, deciduous forests of Zombitsy. Here we will search for one of the world's most endangered birds, the dainty Appert's Greenbul. A variety of other interesting species are resident in Zombitsy and we may find Madagascar's Crested Ibis, Harrier-Hawk, Giant and Crested Couas, raucous Cuckoo-Rollers displaying high overhead, Ashy Cuckoo-shrike, Long-billed Greenbul, Paradise Flycatcher, Rufous, Blue and Red-tailed Vangas, and Madagascar Starling. The highly elusive Fosa has been seen here, Madagascar's largest predator.

Afterwards, drive across the Central Plateau to the very scenic limestone massif of Isalo. These massive rock formations are some of the most dramatic in Madagascar. The arid grasslands en route are home to Madagascar Partridge, Madagascar Buttonquail, Madagascar Sandgrouse, the elegant Namaqua Dove, Madagascar Lark and the attractive Madagascar Harrier, now split from the Reunion species. Watercourses Isalo National Park act as a magnet to the birds of this dry area and we may find Madagascar Harrier-Hawk, White-throated Rail, small flocks of Grey-headed Lovebirds, Stripe-throated Jeries and the region's special bird, Benson's Rock Thrush. Isalo National Park also has rare endemic and very interesting plants to discover.

Arrive in the late afternoon at the luxurious and unique Relais de la Reine located between the town of Ranohira and Isalo National Park. As we arrive, the beautiful late afternoon and evening light will be illuminating a most spectacular setting. Made of local stone, the Relais de la Reine, is designed to melt into the surrounding limestone cliffs. We'll have a full day in this area to walk in Isalo National Park and photograph the magnificent formations both in the early morning light and in the late afternoon.
Lodging: Relais de la Reine, Isalo

October 26, Wednesday: Scenic drive to Ranomafana National Park
Enjoy one last early morning walk at Relais de la Reine before breakfast and then head for Ranomafana National Park. Today we will drive a long distance, but the countryside is fascinating. Stop for lunch in the bustling big town of Fianarantsoa. We will then leave the main road onto a rough road heading east to Ranomafana. We'll pass through the park and reach our hotel, Centre Est, just outside the east side. Ranomafana National Park, like Perinet, is situated on the eastern slope of Madagascar's mountainous backbone. We'll meet our local guide who will have expert advice on where to go in the park, but be assured, wherever we go new birds and lemurs will be found here. This park is quite different from Perinet and much greater in extent, spanning a wide range of elevations and forest types. We will round out our adventure in Madagascar by exploring these rich forests, concentrating on the species that we missed at Perinet.
Lodging: Centre Est Hotel, Ranomafana

Striped Civet or Fosa in Ranomafana National Park

October 27, Thursday: Ranomafana National Park
Ranomafana National Park was originally proclaimed to protect its population of Golden Bamboo Lemurs, an animal first described to science as recently as 1987. In addition to this very rare lemur and both Greater and Grey Bamboo lemurs, we may find Red-fronted Brown, Red-bellied and Small-toothed Sportive lemurs, the impressive Milne-Edwards' Diademed Sifaka and other mammals, such as Common Tenrec and the handsome Ring-tailed Mongoose (Galidia). Night walks in this area are especially rewarding with Greater Dwarf Lemurs, Brown Mouse Lemurs and Madagascar Striped Civets (Fossa) attracted to food put out for them by park officials, and the high concentration of "herps". Chameleons are particularly well represented and we are likely to see several species, most notable of which are the cryptically colored and armored dwarf chameleons.

In the lower elevation forest near our lodge, we hope to find Madagascar Crested Ibis, Henst's Goshawk, the elusive Brown Mesite with its strange vocal duet, Common Sunbird-Asity, Grey-crowned Greenbul, the scarce Yellow-browed Oxylabes, Forest Rock Thrush, Wedge-tailed Jery, and Rufous and Pollen's Vangas. The delightful Pitta-like Ground-Roller is also seen here fairly often. The higher elevation forests and swamps around the village of Vohiparara are home to some birds that we will not yet have encountered. This is one of the most accessible places to see the highly localized and endangered Yellow-bellied Sunbird-Asity. We hope to locate Red-fronted Coua, the elegant Rufous-headed Ground-Roller, the highly elusive Brown Emutail, Rand's Warbler and the recently discovered Cryptic Warbler, Pollen's Vanga and, if we are lucky, Madagascar Cuckoo Hawk, but these are difficult to see.

Expect to be out most of the day walking on narrow trails, some of which are steep and muddy, however, the rewards are high and our pace will be slow. We'll return to our lodge for lunch each day and head back to the park for the afternoon. This evening we will enjoy a farewell dinner together before returning to Tana for the flights homeward.
Lodging: Centre Est Hotel, Ranomafana

October 28 - 29, Friday - Saturday: From Ranomafana to Antsirabe and back to Tana for departure
Drive to Tana after one more early morning in the field. We will break our day-long journey for lunch at the quaint, highland town of Antsirabe, famous for its locally manufactured handicrafts. The road winds northwards across the open landscape of the Horombe Plateau. Our drive gives us some insight into the traditional lifestyle of the Malagasy people, with their tall brown square houses dotting the rolling hills. Steeply terraced rice paddies, graves sites, and roadside markets appear throughout the day, all against the backdrop of golden-yellow grasslands and bare granite inselbergs.

We have day-room reservations at the Relais des Plateaux near the airport in Tana so you can eat dinner and relax before transferring to the airport if your flight leaves very early on the morning of October 29. Dinner on October 28 and the day-rooms are included in your tour.

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Costs

Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send complete trip materials. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment date. Trip cancellation insurance applications are available. Trip options, if any, and singles are extra.

Included:

• Lodging overnights from October 7 to 27, and day-rooms on October 28.
• Meals from breakfast on October 8 through dinner on October 28. One 1-1/2 litre of bottled water per participant per day.
• Land transport.
• Full-time guides, our Malagasy naturalist/guide, and local guides at the reserves.
• Baggage handling for one medium-sized soft case per person.
• Gratuities to the lodge personnel and porters.

Not Included:

• Airfare - Tickets for all domestic flights and international flights. Please let us know if you need help arranging your own international air flights. Domestic flights will be booked by Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris and added to your final payment. Four domestic Madagascar Air flights cost US$807 (quoted September 2009).
• Room service, laundry, meals not on the standard menu, bottled beverages, and other personal expenses.
• Departure taxes and visa costs.
• Gratuities: Tipping is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting $12 to $14 per day per participant (a total of $252 to $294 per participant) to be distributed among all the resident naturalists and drivers. The gratuity will be collected at the end of the safari.

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Other Details

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Visa: Review entry visa requirements and get the application from the Madagascar consulate website.

Flights: You book and pay for your own roundtrip international flights between your home and Antananarivo (airport code TNR), commonly known as Tana. Please let us know if you would like assistance with booking your flights or if you plan to extend your trip by arriving early or departing late.

Arrival - Arrive in Antananarivo by the night of October 7. There is an Air France flight (via Paris) that arrives at 9:55 pm (schedule subject to change). Other airline flights are available via Johannesburg, South Africa.

Departure - Depart from Antananarivo the night of October 28 or early morning on October 29 (very early morning just after midnight). There is an Air France flight departing at 1:30 am flight on October 29 (schedule subject to change). Or take another airline flight of your choice, leaving Antananarivo on the morning of October 29.

Domestic flights - All domestic flights within Madagascar are on Air Madagascar (MD) and are booked by Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris. The cost of these flights is added to your final payment. Domestic flights within Madagascar are frequently changed, although they have been more stable recently. It is important that you are aware of this in case we have to make last minute changes in the itinerary.

Special Note about Travel in Madagascar: Flights within Madagascar are frequently changed and could lead to a last minute change in the itinerary. Some of the roads are in very poor condition. We travel to areas with the best wildlife and pick the best lodges in the area. Some accommodations are rustic, but still very enjoyable. The key is to relax, be flexible, and smile!

Fraser Gear

Leaders: Fraser Gear grew up in South Africa and after finishing his degree spent much time exploring Africa. He followed a career in conservation work, beginning with habitat rehabilitation projects on private game reserves bordering the Kruger National Park. Becoming a very experienced naturalist and birder, Fraser started guiding and became one of the few qualified game trackers in South Africa. Fraser now leads wildlife tours throughout Africa and Madagascar. He has an in-depth knowledge of birds, mammals and reptiles of Madagascar and will insure that everyone has maximum time in the field with the numerous birds, mammals, and reptiles that you will encounter on this amazing Madagascar itinerary.

Guy Germaine is Fraser's first choice for his assistant in Madagascar and Guy, who resides in Madagascar, has been leading wildlife tours for many years. They know all the songs and calls of both the birds and mammals.

Travel Insurance: Emergency Medical Insurance is optional, but encouraged, for this tour. Read about travel insurance and our recommendations and requirements.

Climate: Temperatures vary, but the weather will be comfortable in the highlands and hot in the lowlands, especially in the middle of the day. We will provide details on what to pack.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or contact us to give us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Responsibility: Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner’s risk.

Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris is registered as California Seller of Travel #2063050-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California. Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris is a participant in the Travel Consumer Restitution Corporation (TCRC). In event of a client canceling where a refund is applicable in accordance with the schedule above, or in the event that CES needs to cancel the trip, all payments for transportation or travel service not provided to the client shall be promptly refunded, unless the client instructs us otherwise in writing. All client payments are deposited into a trust account in accordance with California law. If for any reason a valid refund is not forthcoming, the client may request reimbursement from the TCRC within six months of the scheduled end of the tour. Please feel free to ask us for more information.

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All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris.
All photos © Doug or Ted Cheeseman, unless otherwise credited.
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